3 Tips For Foiling Highly Textured Hair

Foil Education: Application Tricks For Highly Textured Hair 

Are your texture clients requesting highlighting services but the results fall flat? To help get the most out of your foil application, Alfaparf Milano Master Colorist Jeannetta Walker-Rodgers (@watchmyhairbounce) taught her foil placement techniques for achieving bright, blended highlights on highly textured hair on BTC University. Click here to become a BTC-U Member and have unlimited access, then keep scrolling for a sneak peak of what you will learn! 

Takeaway Tips:

You can learn Jeannetta’s full technique in her 90-minute course, but we’re teasing these tips you need to know now!

Tip #1: Create Maximum Dimension With A Strategic Application 

To give her textured clients pops of brightness and depth, Jeannetta utilizes three different foil techniques in each section. This results in different levels of lift which is important when applying a toner. Why? “This technique gives the color so many different light reflections, which is important, especially for curly clients,” she explains.

Check out her application strategy below (And don’t worry—we’re sharing Jeannetta’s formulas below too!):

First: Take a thick weave and paint using Formula A.

Second: Create a parting above the weave to establish a clean part. This section will be a teasylight using Formula A. 

Third: Place another thick weave directly above the teasylight and apply Formula B. Allow the remaining hair to be left out of the foil for natural dimension. 

Pro Tip: When working at the top of the crown, reverse the application and start with a teasylight first, then follow with the two weaves. This will create more brightness at the top and internal depth. 

Tip #2: Avoid A Dark Spot At The Hairline With A Pivot Parting

To connect the side sections to her face frame, Jeannetta works with a pivot parting using the hairline as a guide. Starting right in front of the ear, Jeannetta begins with a diagonal back parting and then works her way upward including a piece of the hairline in every section. By the time she reaches the recession, the parting is almost a perfect horizontal. “This will create a full hairline connection so when she wears her hair up, her hairline is completely connected,” Jeannetta explains. 

Tip #3: Blend Upwards To Avoid Lines Of Demarcation 

 To blend the root tap formula with the toner on the mids and ends, Jeannetta applies her mid formula a few inches below the root tap formula. Then, once the toner is applied fully to the mids and ends, she works the color upwards to blend into the root tap, avoiding a line of demarcation and creating a blended, color melt. 

Pro Tip: To create more depth at the root, Jeannetta will bring her root tap formula down further in a few sections and then melt the second toner formula all the way to the ends.

Slide For The Gorgeous Before & After!

• Formula A (highlight and teasylight)

  Alfaparf Milano BB Bleach High Lift + 30-volume Alfaparf Milano Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

• Formula B (midlight)

  BB Bleach Easy Lift + 20-volume Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

   

  Note: Process until highlights and teasylights are a Level 9 and midlights are a Level 7.

• Formula C (root smudge)

  Alfaparf Milano Color Wear Demi-Permanent Color 30g 6 Metallic Ruby + 5-volume Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

• Formula D (mids to ends)

  Color Wear 30g 9 Metallic Rose Copper + 10g 9 Metallic Bronze + 5g 6 Metallic Ruby Brown + 5-volume Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

Have Questions? Jeannetta Has Answers!

One of the benefits of watching a course on BTC University? Artists are able to answer your questions in REAL TIME! Here are some technical questions viewers had for Jeannetta during her livestream:

Question: If my client is already pretty bright, can I incorporate lowlights into this technique to add dimension back into the hair?

Answer: “Definitely! The way I would alter the technique is everywhere I place a teasylight, I would instead take the negative space but not tease and place a lowlight in that area. You can drag your lowlight formula all the way down to the ends, you can create V-shaped depth. So yes, you can definitely use this technique to apply lowlights and create needed depth.” 

Q: What products do you suggest to texture clients for at-home maintenance to keep them healthy between salon appointments?

A: “The first important rule to know when coloring curly hair is that at-home care is inevitable. I ask my clients to invest in the Semi Di Lino line from Alfaparf and I create a treatment schedule that includes the Reparative Shampoo, Reparative Mask and the Leave-In Spray. Then, depending on how light their hair lifts or how damaged it is, I recommend the Reparative Lotion. Once they come back in and I can reevaluate the hair and it looks great I will start to incorporate hydration and moisture with the Nutritive Line. I also discuss the cost with them because it is not just a color and cut service, it is also care. That includes using professional products and coming in between appointments for treatments. It’s really important, especially for curly clients to commit to the care that goes with bleaching and lightening.”

Ready To Try Alfaparf Milano Products? Click Here To Check Out Jeannetta’s Favorite Products!  

Click The Beaker For Jeannetta’s Formula Breakdown! 

• Formula A (highlight and teasylight)

  Alfaparf Milano BB Bleach High Lift + 30-volume Alfaparf Milano Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

• Formula B (midlight)

  BB Bleach Easy Lift + 20-volume Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

   

  Note: Process until highlights and teasylights are a Level 9 and midlights are a Level 7.

• Formula C (root smudge)

  Alfaparf Milano Color Wear Demi-Permanent Color 30g 6 Metallic Ruby + 5-volume Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

• Formula D (mids to ends)

  Color Wear 30g 9 Metallic Rose Copper + 10g 9 Metallic Bronze + 5g 6 Metallic Ruby Brown + 5-volume Oxid’o Developer (1:2)

Products Used

Lightener

BB Bleach

Alfaparf Milano

Lightener

Oxid’o Developer

Alfaparf Milano

Ready To Learn Everything? BTC-U Members Have Unlimited Access to Jeannetta’s Entire Course On BTC University! Click Here To Become A Member Today!