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Last updated: July 13, 2022

3 Silk Press Tips To Avoid Unwanted Dents

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Silk Press Education: 3 Tips For Smooth + Voluminous Results 

There’s nothing like combing through a finished silk press service and getting smooth, silky strands from roots to ends. But if you’re finding unwanted waves or bends, silk press expert John George (@johnwegeorge) is here to help!


John George shared his silk press techniques for achieving a seamless final look, why the blow-dry is the most important step and how to create volume where you want it! Keep reading to get all the info and click here to purchase John George’s course on BTC University for unlimited access! 




What We Learned:

You can learn John George’s full technique in his 90-minute course, but we’re teasing these tips you need to know now!


Tip #1: Avoid Unwanted Dents At The Root With Controlled Tension

A smooth, controlled blow-dry relieves tension on the scalp and avoids overheating the roots with the flat iron while straightening. For each section, John George overdirects the hair out with a nine-row Denman Brush on top of the section. Then, he places the smoothing attachment directly on the hair and uses a gentle back and forth motion to dry the root area, keeping the tension tight with the Denman brush. 


Then, he repeats the technique to the underside of the same section so the entire section is dried and smooth. To cross-check, John George creates random partings throughout the section, making sure the partings are clean and even. If there are any bends or unwanted curls, then he will repeat the blowdrying technique. 


Pro Tip: To determine section size, John George matches the size of the section to the width of the brush to allow for complete control. For clients with denser hair or a tighter curl pattern, take smaller sections that are easier to control. 


Tip #2: Sectioning Tips For A Consistent Silk Press

“Proper sectioning will help when approaching a curved area of the head, like around the occipital bone, with a straight tool like the flat iron,” John George explains. “It might not be a large or thick section, but it will allow you to get the hot tool as close to the scalp as possible so the finished result is consistent from scalp to ends.” Check out John George’s sectioning strategy below:


  • Start by sectioning the hair straight down the middle and note the natural curve of the client’s head. 
  • Create a horizontal parting following the natural curve of the head right below the occipital bone, resulting in three large sections.
  • Then, create a subsection with a curved parting above the ear, connecting the front hairline to the occipital bone section.  
  • At the curved sections, like the nape and around the ear, use diagonal partings so that the straight edge of the flat iron can fit comfortably against the skin.  
  • When working up the center of the head take curved, horizontal partings. 


Pro Tip: Use the initial center parting as a guide for the diagonal subsections. When the last subsection meets the center parting, move to the other side. 


Tip #3: Create Volume & Body At The Root With Overdirection

For finished styles that have more movement at the root, like a dramatic side part, John George overdirects the hair straight up, controlling the section with a heat-resistant comb and the flat iron. Then, he guides the hair to the opposite side of where it naturally falls to create a lift. 


Pro Tip: Keep the heat-resistant comb and flat iron together when straightening each section, making sure the comb is beneath the flat iron. This will maintain control of the section and smooth the hair before heat styling.


Slide For The Before & After!

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Have Questions? John George Has Answers!

One of the benefits of watching a course on BTC University? Artists are able to answer your questions in REAL TIME! Here are some technical questions viewers had for John George during his livestream:


Question: How do you know if you need to raise the temperature on your flat iron or not?


Answer: “When I am straightening, I am looking at the hair and seeing how it straightens. When the iron is not hot enough, there will be small subtle buckles in the hair that are visible. If a subtle wave pattern is still visible, then it is time to increase the heat slightly and you can continue to increase the heat until the hair is smooth from root to end with one pass of the flat iron.”


Q: Do you have any advice for clients with gray hair requesting a silk press service?


A: “So gray hair can be very stubborn and very wiry. Sometimes it will cooperate and sometimes it just does what it wants no matter the prep or the type of product. I would suggest doing the best you can, but know that because the color is either white or silver, trying to add more heat to tame that strand is an easy way to discolor the hair. If you overheat the hair the color could develop a yellowish tint to it.”


Click Here To Purchase John George’s Course On BTC University & Receive Unlimited Access!


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