HOW-TO STEPS

• 

  
  1

  Kelli’s hairstyle was cutting edge. But it has grown out to be undefined and disproportionate. Her new design will be much stronger in shape with a fashion-forward feeing that suits her look and personality.

• 

  
  2

  The nape consists of graduation over a solid perimeter at the center, with longer freeform lengths at either side. Planar sculpting through the crest area results in a combination of increase, uniform, and graduated lengths.

• 

  
  3

  The interior consists of increase layers with alternate directions of increase, contrasting with a short, graduated fringe.

• 

  
  4

  Section from the apex to the tip of each ear and horizontally from the tip of each ear across the lower crown. Begin in the center nape with a vertical parting. Use medium-high projection with a corresponding finger position and sculpt with the notching technique. Using a mobile design line, direct each parting toward the back creating a diagonal plane as you work from the center to one side. Repeat on the other side.

• 

  
  5

  Refine the perimeter of the section horizontally using the notching technique and the comb to control the hair.

• 

  
  6

  Next, subsection horizontally at the upper crest, extending to the front hairline. At the center back, take a vertical parting, project straight out and use a vertical finger position. Sculpt with the razor etching technique using a length guide from below.

• 

  
  7

  Work from the center toward one side. Use a mobile design line and the same technique as you work to the front hairline. Then work from the center back toward the opposite side.

   

• 

  
  8

  Use comb control and natural distribution with the notching technique to create a horizontal line at the side. Repeat on the other side. 

• 

  
  9

  Move to the interior and release a 1″ (2.5 cm) section parallel to the front hairline, extending into the side sections. Air form this section in natural distribution. Begin sculpting at the center, using comb control and the notching technique to sculpt a horizontal line. Next, angle the comb slightly as you work toward the sides, creating a concave line.
  
  

  Finish this section by freehand notching into the fringe to refine the texture and lengths.

• 

  
  10

  Subsection the remaining interior lengths with a large zigzag parting, creating five narrow triangular sections.

• 

  
  11

  Begin at the front triangle, projecting straight up and shifting slightly toward the point. Angle your fingers to increase the length toward the wide end of the triangle. Sculpt with the razor peeling technique.

  Then, move to the next triangular section and work in the opposite direction, shifting toward the point and angling your fingers again for an increase toward the wide end. Repeat as you work toward the back of the interior. Continue to alternate directions from one triangle to the next.

• 

  
  12

  Apply a level 5, gold demi-permanent color with developer to the entire head at the base and from base to ends along the perimeter, including the front hairline. Exclude the longer lengths on the left side of the nape.

  Within a crescent-shaped area that extends from above the right eye, apply powder lightener with 30 volume (9%) developer from midstrand to ends on random sections and to the longer lengths on the left side of the nape. Then apply the demi-permanent formula to the remainder of the ends. Process, rinse, shampoo and condition prior to styling.

• 

  
  13

  Credits:
  Hair Sculpture – Yolly ten Koppel, Pivot Point the Netherlands
  Makeup – Lori Neapolitan
  Fashion Styling – Kristy Piunti
  Photography Credits – David Placek

  Innovation features both a Style Book and a Technical Manual including Kelli plus seven additional step-by-steps. Click here to purchase Pivot Point’s Innovation!