How-Tos > On Paper Exclusive: Sassoon Academy’s Cut To Perfection
November 10, 2010

On Paper Exclusive: Sassoon Academy’s Cut To Perfection

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On Paper Exclusive: Sassoon Academy’s Cut To Perfection

BTC On Paper Magazine Exclusive: Issue #1- Change -Anyone familiar with the Vidal Sassoon approach to cutting knows that the system is based on the complete mastery of fundamental lines, graduation and layering techniques in their purest forms. Here is AB-square line with graduation-aka the classic bob from the ABC | Cutting Hair the Sassoon Way By Vidal Sassoon collection that’s always in style, from the best-selling Sassoon ABC DVD Collection.

On Paper Keyword: businessbob

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    Divide the hair at the center back. Take a horizontal section that is slightly inverted. Keep the head titled forward, comb the hair down into the neck and cut a line that mirrors the angle of the section. Extend the line into the corner of the section, without rounding the shape.

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    Take parallel sections until a line is reached that connects the top of the ear and meets at a point above the occitital bone. At this stage incorporate the hairline behind the ears; this will form the guideline for the sides.

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    Now take a diagonal section and cut a line using the underneath hair as a guide. Lift this section slightly higher in the center, becoming lower through the corner. Continue taking parallel sections, lifting each one progressively higher.

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    The degree at which the hair is lifted will determine the amount of graduation. Continue to check the balance of the shape as it develops.

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    Move to the side. With the head in a natural position, and using the hair behind the ears as a guide, take a section that extends the line from the back to the front.

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    Compensate for the protrusion of the ears by: holding the hair in the comb; holding the hair in the comb and overdirecting backwards; or holding the hair onto the skin with the fingers, back of the hand or comb.

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    Take a curved section from the front to the back, lift the hair out and cross-check from the front to the back, removing any excess weight. This will also increase the amount of graduation. Repeat on the other side.

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    To style, use tension to control the mid-lengths and ends of the hair to accentuate natural root lift.

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    Refine the shape after blow drying by taking horizontally curved sections, checking for any irregularities in the line.

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