HOW-TO STEPS

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  1
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  2

  Starting on wet hair, section hair into three sections or “floors”. The basement or nape is left down while the main floor or the mid section is pulled up from indentation in front or roof section.

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  3

  With model standing, cut hair straight across from side to side to give a solid form.

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  4

  Turn head and cut side in solid form following guide.

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  5

  Drop top or roof section and repeat steps 3-4 cutting to previous guide.

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  6

  Take horizontal sections and pull all hair over with finger thick partings and cuttings.

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  7

  Cutting a forward graduation split hair in half in profile section; stand on left to cut the right side and on the right to cut the left side.   Take diagonal back partings finger thick and elevate 90 degrees, over directing to just the side of the nose (to maintain length) and cut palm to palm. 

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  8

  Take finger thick partings, bringing the hair all the way to the stationary guide (or first section), whatever doesn’t reach, doesn’t get cut, and cut palm to palm. 

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  9

  Braid the basement section or clip it out of the way. Take a finger thick parting from the nose to the nape (along Mohawk line).

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  10

  Elevate hair 90 degrees at natural projection (straight up), and visually cut short to long, the shortest being the previous cut from the graduation. 

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  11

  Take radial sections at the crown and all the way around. Elevate 90 degrees at natural projection and cut short to long using previous section as a guide, thus creating a layer that in transient or moves.  

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  12

  Move on to styling options.

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  13

  For a sleek look, mousse is applied all over with a small amount of gloss mixed in. After rough blow-drying starting in the basement and working to the top to remove much of the moisture, Ryan went back through with a paddle brush. He used a pump hairspray to help control her natural curl and blow-dried in the same partings that were used for the haircut. Once dry, a small amount of medium hold spray is lightly dusted over the surface to seal in a straight and silky finish.

   

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  14

  DeAnnalyn started with already dried hair and took radial partings creating three ponytails, each being secured with elastics. Using a light working spray, she took the hair from the tails and twisted, tying each into a knot on top of the elastic that was binding the ponytail. The ends were left sprigging out, but the knots were secured into place with pins. The ends were lightly flat ironed then more working spray was used to finish.

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  15

  To create a slight wiggle to the hair, a 1-inch iron is used on random sections going back and forth in direction. The hair is split in half from nose to nape and tied in a knot, anchoring with cris-crossed bobby pins. Matching hair extensions are pinned in until the desired length and volume is reached.

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  16

  To create a slight wiggle to the hair, a 1-inch iron is used on random sections going back and forth in direction. The hair is split in half from nose to nape and tied in a knot, anchoring with cris-crossed bobby pins. Matching hair extensions are pinned in until the desired length and volume is reached.

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  17

  To create a slight wiggle to the hair, a 1-inch iron is used on random sections going back and forth in direction. The hair is split in half from nose to nape and tied in a knot, anchoring with cris-crossed bobby pins. Matching hair extensions are pinned in until the desired length and volume is reached.

  Hair: Ryan and DeAnnalyn Teal for Capello Salons – Portland, OR
  Make up: Denise D’Angelo
  Photo: Chad Boutin
  Production: Teaching A.R.T.istry