HOW-TO STEPS

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  1

  Comb the hair down in its natural fall—tilt head slightly forward and cut a minimal, A-line shape in the outline.

   

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  3

  Turn the head to the side and connect the outline to the front, keeping the front longer.

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  4

  Section across the crown to behind the ears, creating a triangular section with a point in front, leaving out the fringe area.

   

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  5

  Lift the hair horizontally from the occipital bone up to 90 degrees or more and carve a concave layer into the hair—working shorter in the center to longer toward the edges.

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  6

  Move to the front and cut a strong, rounded-shaped fringe following the contours of the cheekbones, carving into the hair and blend into the sides.

   

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  7

  Working with the head tilted forward, carve through the mid-lengths and ends to create texture and movement.

   

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  8

  To create internal texture, twist the hair and carve through for even more texture.

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  9

  After sectioning the hair into three zones, start foiling at the lowest zone by weaving vertical sections using SUBTIL Powder Lightener with 10-volume Oxydant. Then, continue the foil placement in the second zone, working from the hairline back while using a fine weave around the face.

   

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  10

  Moving to the top zone, leave out the fringe and divide down the middle. Continue vertical placement of foils using a fine weave.

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  11

  Work with a visual freehand technique. Start at the bottom, backcomb the hair and apply Powder Lightener with 40-volume Oxydant to the ends of the hair and cover with foil.

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  12

  To start the third technique, apply a richer, more neutral base color to the rest of the hair, including the teased portion, ensuring to saturate every strand of exposed hair. Mix: 3 oz. Subtil 6.1 + ¼ oz. Subtil Blue +4½ oz. Subtil Universal Developer. Process for 35 minutes.

   

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  13

  After shampooing, apply Tone HD Level 5 + Subtil Universal Developer as a color wash to the first few inches of the base.

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  14

  Apply Subtil Tone HD color equal parts 6.0 and 7.12 + Subtil Universal Developer as a color wash to the ends of the hair. Process for 20 minutes.

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