Express Rose Gold How-To
The 90-Minute Express Rose Gold Technique Perfect for Summer
Let’s face it. Summer 2020 looks a bit different than we thought it would. Okay… a LOT. But that doesn’t mean we can’t still have killer hair. Wella Professionals Craft Expert James Earnshaw’s (@jhair_stylist) rose gold literally stopped us in our scroll so we HAD to find out all of the juicy details.
Press play to watch his express technique and scroll down to get all of his tips and tricks.
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Who is this technique for?
This look is for anyone who wants to have this FIRE rose blonde! Keep in mind the hair must be lifted to a pale yellow Level 9 so be sure to use your professional judgment to determine if this is attainable for your client.
Pro Tip: Wella Professionals Blondor Blonde Meches give you 5 levels of lift in 30 minutes, so take this in to account based on your client’s starting level.
Color Formulas:
Formula A (highlights):
Wella Professionals Blondor Blonde Meches + 6% developer
Formula B (toner):
15g Wella Professionals Illumina 9/59 + 15g Wella Illumina Opal Essence Titanium Rose + 30g 1.9% developer
Formula C (leave-in color):
20ml 5/ Perfecton Color Rinse by Color Fresh + 200ml water
Products Used
Formula How-To
Step 1: Starting in the crown area of the head, take fine slice highlights throughout the crown and apply Formula A in foils. Be sure to work diagonally back away from the face for more coverage. When you get to the fringe, switch your sectioning to work vertically so it sits more naturally.
Something to consider: When formulating, don’t forget about the underlying tone. James lifted his client to a Level 9 knowing that the Wella Professionals Illumina 9/59 would work with the underlying yellow pigment found in a Level 9 to create more of a peachy pink tone. Applying this formula to a Level 10 would have resulted in more of a pure pink.
Pro Tip: Wella Professionals Blondor Blonde Meches lightener stops developing after 30 minutes or 15 minutes under heat. This is great if your application time is on the slower side because it eliminates having to rinse as you go or switching your developers and provides the comfort of knowing your client won’t over process.
Step 2: After shampooing and rinsing, Apply Formula B root to end all over towel dried hair. Process for 20 minutes. Rinse and condition. Illumina is a permanent color line so when using the 1.9% developer, it can shift the base. In this case, that is exactly what James wanted. “It shifted her base from a Level 8 to an 8 1/2 and blended the highlights in for me.” James anticipated this shift and that is why he chose to lighten in slices. “Otherwise the dimension would have gotten completely lost” he says.
Pro Tip: Wella Professional’s Illumina Opal Essence Color is formulated to reflect both warm AND cool light throughout the bends of the hair, giving each shade multifaceted tones. It’s super reflective and dimensional, which is why James chose it for this look.
Step 3: Apply Formula C all over hair. Do not rinse. Towel dry and blow-dry it in to the hair.
Pro Tip: Perfecton by Color Fresh is a temporary leave-in color that has both direct dye and a vitamin care complex built in to add vibrancy and shine. This is a quick and effective way to level out a color if you end up with an uneven result!
