Thom Priano’s Tips and Tricks for Every Kind of Texture
Top men’s stylist Thom Priano creates the looks for Abercrombie and Fitch, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and GQ Magazine, and regularly works with a roster of high profile celebrities, including Brad Pitt, Robert Pattinson and Jimmy Fallon. Based in New York City, where clients hail from every corner of the globe, Thom sees his share of textures in the salon. Not to mention the fact that the assignments for his worldly editorial, celebrity and corporate clients put him in contact with men from around the world. “I’d say I’ve worked with people from just about every ethnic background,” Thom laughs. “So I’m a bit of an expert on global textures!”
OK Thom, here’s a chance to share all of that experience! What if the guy’s hair is…
…bone straight and resistant?
“Don’t cut it too short! If you do, it will stick up like a porcupine! Or, cut it super short so it can’t spring up—maybe crop the sides and back and leave the top longer. Cut with scissors, but go back and razor the ends to prevent it from appearing too blunt. To style, use a holding pomade for control.”
“This is the most difficult hair type to cut because it has no body or movement. So if the client has good bone structure, I like to keep the hair as short as possible. If not, keep the sides short and leave some length on the top—but no longer than the middle of the eye. Avoid razors—scissors add some heft by creating blunt ends. I like to style with volumizing gels or foams that add body, and I’m not afraid to use a blow dryer on these guys to create some extra lift.”
“I cut this hair in two phases. First, I’ll brush it out when it’s dry to get a good sense of the shape and then cut it with scissors. Then I’ll shampoo and condition the hair and refine the cut when it’s wet, because sometimes you will see a growth direction you may not have seen on dry hair. To style, I use a leave-in conditioner or styling cream to supply moisture. And I often recommend a light relaxer or keratin smoother to soften the curl.”
“I feel this is the most common type of hair these days—medium texture with some wave or curl. And it’s the easiest to work with—it will do just about anything. It’s mostly about the finishing. So cut in the shape that you want and then select the styling product that will produce the result that you’re after. I often apply a gel to shape the hair when it’s wet, then add some pomade for pliable movement once the hair dries.
COLOR, Cut & Style 2016
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