Runway Report: Experimental Styles Inspire at New York Fashion Week
Do you like your Fashion Week styles straight, sleek or tied up in a neat pony? Then this list isn’t for you.
Do you like your Fashion Week styles straight, sleek or tied up in a neat pony? Then this list isn’t for you. These styles are the bold, the avant-garde and the experimental. These are the styles created by hairdressing vanguards. They’re the ones that are meant to truly inspire.
So let’s hear it for those designers who give their stylists the green light to invent, go a little crazy and unleash their inner artist. Because after all, isn’t that what Fashion Week is all about?
Hair by Allen Wood for Bumble and bumble
Tanya Taylor’s spring/summer ’16 collection was inspired by a recent trip to Kenya, Tanzania and Morocco. The mood was playful with a focus on vibrant colors, novel textures and luxe detailing.
“The hairstyle was inspired by desert textures and the uniformity of dress and hairstyling often seen in ancient tribes,” shares Lead Stylist Allen Wood. “This hair is a gritty, dirtied-up, twisted topknot with lots of texture and separation. The twisted effect adds a textural element while the ‘flicked’ ends of the topknot have a graphic, ‘Bird of Paradise’ effect. Tanya’s girl has a keen sense of style. This collection allows her to further explore a range of color, texture and silhouette.”
Get the Look
1. Saturate hair with Bumble and bumble Prep, then evenly apply Bumble and bumble Surf Spray, followed by a generous amount of Bumble and bumble Brilliantine to coat the hair.
2. Use your hands to twist and blow-dry hair in large sections, upward in the direction of a high ponytail.
3. Use your fingertips to take pie-shaped sections around the head and twist along the scalp from hairline toward base of the high pony, spraying with Bumble and bumble Cityswept Finish along the way to saturate and add even more grit.
4. Gather hair into a high ponytail (in line with the top of the ear from the profile) and then coil it into a topknot with the ends left out. Use a flat iron to flick the ends (not too pin straight) and spray with Bumble and bumble Classic Hairspray.
5. Mold the end pieces with fingertips to create a spiky, “Bird of Paradise” effect.
Hair by Laurent Philippon, Bumble and bumble Global Artistic Director
Karen Walker’s collection was an exploration of folk-meets-utility-meets-glam, inspired by life in the Soviet Union’s secret training base, so Lead Stylist Laurent Philippon wanted to give the models a boyish, military hairstyle. “It’s rolled from one side and almost comes over the eye on one side,” says Laurent. “There’s an architecture to it, but it’s still cool and effortless.”
Get the Look
1. Create a deep side part on one side and apply Bumble and bumble Thickening Hairspray throughout to eliminate frizz.
2. Work a blow-dry/volumizing product into the hair and blow-dry throughout using fingers rather than a brush for lived-in texture.
3. Start with hair on the smaller side of the side part from above the ear and create a roll, twisting the hair under itself all the way along the hairline, securing with pins until the crown.
4. With the larger side-sweeping section of hair, pull down around the roll and begin a braid just under the ear. Secure the braid under the twist at the nape of the neck with pins. Finish with Bumble and bumble Does it All.
Hair by Claudio Lazo for Wella Professionals
The look at Isa Arfen combined bold color with tropical prints and textures to create a style that celebrates the individual. Lead Artist Claudio Lazo described the inspiration for his collaboration with the designer as, “organically tropical…the hair has a leafy texture that is almost like a Mohawk and is slightly different for each model, complementing their unique style.”
Get the Look
1. Prep the hair by applying Wella Professionals EIMI Dry Me to the top of the head and using a fine tooth comb, brush through the lengths of the hair to create a smooth texture.
2. Divide the hair into two sections and apply Wella Professionals EIMI Extra Volume Mousse to the bottom half of the hair only.
3. Apply a small amount of Wella Professionals EIMI Root Shoot on the base of the hair and work through the lengths, blow drying from root to tip until the hair is about eighty-percent dry.
4. Next, apply Wella Professionals EIMI Extra Volume Mousse to the front section of the hair, working through with a fine tooth comb and blow-dry.
5. Using an elastic, pull the hair tightly back into a ponytail. Using the back of the comb, gently lift pieces in the front section to make the ponytail appear more organic.
6. Twist a portion of the ponytail in either direction and using a fabric elastic spool, secure the ponytail by threading the elastic under the ponytail and tying in front. If needed, further secure the look with bobby pins on either side.
7. Using a flat iron, straighten the remaining lengths of the hair, applying Wella Professionals EIMI Stay Firm and brush through the length of the pony to hold the hair in place.
8. Bring the remaining pieces of the hair to the top of the head, allowing some pieces to fall naturally in different directions.
9. Weave the fabric thread through the top of the knot and secure with bobby pins at the top of the head, applying Wella Professionals EIMI Stay Firm to each piece for hold while weaving pieces over one another.
10. Finish by spraying a small amount of Wella Professionals EIMI Extra Volume Mousse into the palm of the hand and mix with a small amount of water before applying it to the sides of the head to add sleek shine and texture.
Hair by Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble
For his spring/summer 2016 collection, Thom Browne stayed true to his theatrical-inspired roots of seasons past, this time designing his set after a schoolroom—turned upside down. “I spoke to the Thom Browne team a while ago and they told me about the set for the show,” says Lead Stylist Jimmy Paul. “The whole thing will be upside down, on the ceiling. The collection is based on uniforms and the models will have tradition ponytail, schoolgirl braids that will be sticking straight up.”
Get the Look
1. Start with Bumble and bumbleThickening Hairspray at the roots and comb into two ponytails on the top of the head .
2. Spray the ponytails with a texturizing styling product to give a more lived-in, gritty texture and volume.
3. Separate the hair in each ponytail into three sections and use three corresponding pieces of wire in each section to braid.
4. Spray both braids with a generous amount of Bumble and bumble Classic Hairspray and dry with a blow-dryer.
Hair by Kien Hoang for Oribe Hair Care
The Blonds Collection drew inspiration from Egyptian burial practices, so Kien Hoang created a look reminiscent of a Pharaoh’s headdress. “This season, The Blonds went to Egypt with the collection so we created cool, textured wigs that frame the face—it’s very Cleopatra and sphinx,” said Kien.
Get the Look
1. Prep hair with Oribe Foundation Mist, and divide in half by sectioning from the front crown to the nape to create a clean center part.
2. Create two high, tight ponytails (pigtails).
3. Braid each ponytail and wrap into a bun.
4. Using half of a mesh hair donut, secure it in a crescent shape on top of each bun, and then pin securely. Finish with Imperméable Anti-Humidity Spray.
5. Prep the wigs using Dry Texturizing Spray on the roots and Soft Dry Conditioner Spray on the ends.
6. Form and mold the wig into a triangular shape using Superfine Strong Hair Spray.
Attach the wigs to each form on top of the bun. Once secure, use clippers to cut a blunt, lip-level bob.