Plum Raspberry Sorbet
Elements of violet, orchid, magenta and pink pop out against prelightened blonde to create a gem-toned color melt. Stylist Amanda Giordano @Salon Nova in Limerick, PA shares her multidimensional how-to!
Plum Raspberry Sorbet
Elements of violet, orchid, magenta and pink pop out against prelightened blonde to create a gem-toned color melt. The inspiration for this multi-tonal wonder? BTC’s COLOR, Cut & Style Show! “My assistant Emily and I attended the show and have been gradually trying all of the techniques we discovered. The veil on this color placement was inspired by Redken’s Justin Isaac, along with her client’s haircut, which I had recently shortened,” shares Amanda Giordano @Salon Nova in Limerick, PA. “My client Kelly loves to change up her look, so I’m constantly looking at her hair with a fresh eye.” Here, she shares her bold, multidimensional color formula!
Natural level: 6 regrowth about half inch
Existing artificial level: 2 with Level 7,8 and 9 on the midlengths and ends from previous violet ombré.
Formula A (prelighten): Wella Professionals Blondor Soft Blonde + 30-volume developer + 1/4 oz. Olaplex
Formula B (foundation/triangle/veil shade): Wella Professionals Color Touch 3/68 + /68 + 6-volume developer + Pravana VIVIDS Violet + Pravana VIVIDS Wild Orchid + Joico Intensity Magenta + Pink
1. Map out on the head where you want your darker shades to be located, then clip away the veil and 2 triangles, as these will be the foundation shades.
2. Then apply Formula A to the hair. In this particular situation, Amanda used a cotton and cellophane technique. Since her client’s ends were already at the desired level, she did not need to lift them. Paint Formula A in the midlength area where the majority of the hair is a Level 2. Stay about 1 to 2 inches away from the scalp.
3. Using a medium, white bristle application brush from Colortrack (Amanda’s favorite), and take 1-inch horizontal sections throughout the whole head, defusing the soft blonde as you get closer to the top. “I choose soft blonde when doing fashion shades, because when it’s white, you’re able to see the true exposed underlying pigment. That way there won’t be any surprises when you rinse,” notes Amanda. “I also love it’s creamy consistency, especially when mixed with Olaplex, since it doesn’t dry out.”
4. Process the hair for 45 minutes or until the hair has developed to the desired level, rinse and wash the hair once with KEVIN.MURPHY BALANCING.WASH.
5. Blow-dry the hair and mist Aloxxi Colourprime on the hair for even porosity, consistent color development and smooth color application. You can also apply Aloxxi Barrier Cream around the hairline to prevent the color from staining.
6. Next, apply Formula B to the regrowth area. Foil out the veil and 2 triangles with Formula B. The veil is a long rectangle shape about 1 to 2 fingers wide on top of her part, in this case Amanda’s client had a strong side part. Then move on to your triangles on the right. Place the triangle above the ear where the curve of the head begins, the triangle should point up. Then move on to the left and place this triangle past the ear, below the curve of the head.
7. Use a zip-zag parting technique as you work through the head and foil 2-inch wide slices of the violet and wild orchid mixture. “I choose to foil with the violet because of it’s power,” shares Amanda. “If the hair is porous when you rinse, it can mix or change other less powerful shades. But of course, all hair is different.” Allow the color to process for 30 minutes.
8. Once all the foiling is complete, apply the pink and magenta mixture to all the hair that was left out of the foils.
9. Once the color is ready done processing, rinse the hair with cold water, leaving all foils in. “Make neat and tight foil packets so they’re easy to work around and aren’t slipping out,” says Amanda.
10. Remove the foils, rinsing each one simultaneously. After all rinsing is complete, towel-dry the hair and apply the Olaplex Bond Perfector No 2 for 10 minutes. Rinse well, and style as desired
Keep Color Vibrant, Longer!
“A longer life for your color is a commitment,” Amanda notes. “So be aware of what you’re doing to your client’s hair constantly.” Here are Amanda’s tips and tricks for keeping your client’s color for fading too quickly.
1. Use a shampoo and conditioner that is color-friendly.
2. Make friends with a dry shampoo. Amanda likes KEVIN.MURPHY FRESH.HAIR.
3. Keep ends neat and cut. Always avoid split ends.
4. The most amazing thing in our industry right now is Olaplex! Be sure to have your clients take Olaplex home with them to help the integrity, porosity and longevity of their color.
5. Water can be very damaging to hair as it has so many unknown minerals. The less your clients wet their hair, the better.