How-To: Mocha Latte Balayage
When Ellie Tognozzi (@hairdesignbyellie)’s first-time client sat down in her chair, she was overdue for a change. Ellie’s look of choice? A totally on-trend, soft, blended balayage with a deep shadow root, of course! Here’s how she did it.
When Santa Rosa, Calif. stylist Ellie Tognozzi (@hairdesignbyellie)’s first-time client sat down in her chair, she was overdue for a change. “She had been in the hair lightening process recently since she colored her hair black late last year,” shares Ellie. “Her previous stylist was gradually foil highlighting her to brighten her up, but she was wanting something softer and more blended.” Ellie’s look of choice? A totally on-trend, soft, blended balayage with a deep shadow root, of course! Here’s how she did it.
Natural level: 8/strawberry blonde
Formula A (base color): Fanola 30g 4.0 + 20g 5.1 + 75g 3.5-volume developer + 2g Formula 18 Plant Based Reinforcement
Formula B: Fanola 30g 6.0 + 45g 3.5-volume developer + 2g Formula 18 Plant Based Reinforcement
Formula C: Scruples POWER BLONDE Balayage Clay Lightener + 20-volume developer + 2g Formula 18 Plant Based Reinforcement
Formula D (lowlights): Formula 18 Bleach Powder + 30-volume developer + 2g Formula 18 Plant Based Reinforcement
1. Using a Framar color brush, apply Formula A to the base to about 2½ inches out.
2. Apply Formula B over the bottom ½ inch of Formula A, and down about 2 ½ more inches, melting it into Formula A with your pointer and middle fingers. Extend this color about halfway down the hair shaft.
3. Begin your balayage at the midshaft. “From that point, I had to decide which parts of her hair needed to be lightened more than others, since she still had some significantly darker lowlights,” says Ellie. To brighten the existing blonde, Ellie applied Formula C and processed in balayage film.
4. For the dark lowlights, she applied Formula D and processed in foils.
5. Process for 35 to 40 minutes, then shampoo with Formula 18 Violet Toning Shampoo. “There was no need for any additional toner!” says Ellie.
6. Apply MoringapleX Pre-Style Leave-In Spray to towel-dried hair for added strength as well as to detangle, then comb through. Ellie also added Saints & Sinners Velvet Divine Styling Potion, then rough-dried the hair.
7. Curl the hair using a 1-inch Hot Tools Curling Iron, leaving 1½ inches of hair out at the ends. Finish with Living Proof Flex Shaping Hairspray to create soft waves.
Total chair time: 4 hours