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September 14, 2015

How-To: “Clear” Blonde

Marcus Byerly, a freelance hairstylist from Knoxville, Tenn., creates a custom icy, platinum blonde for his client for her upcoming wedding. Here's how he did it.

How-To: “Clear” Blonde


That blonde is so cool, she’s like ice. Well…kind of. Marcus Byerly, a freelance hairstylist from Knoxville, Tenn., who specializes in blondes and curly hair, received a very special request from his client for her upcoming wedding. She first came to Marcus 2 to 3 months ago for a color correction gone wrong. “She has touched up her regrowth with a box color and pulled it through her base, leaving a green-blue cast to her hair,” shares Marcus. To fix her color, Marcus did the following treatment:

Apply a soap cap with Redken Flash Lift + 20-volume developer, massaging through the hair avoiding the regrowth area for 15 minutes. Then rinse, lightly shampoo and deep condition the hair with Aveda Damage Reconstructive Treatment to remove the blue-green undertones. Marcus told her to leave her hair alone, he gave her a good trim and told her to deep condition her hair regularly.

Then as her wedding approached, she came back with a request to lighten up her blonde–she wanted to go as light and cool as possible. So Marcus rolled up his sleeves and created this custom icy vanilla formula. Here’s how he did it. 

Starting Level: 7 on regrowth with pre-existing platinum highlights

Color Formulas
Formula A (regrowth): Redken Color Fusion 9av +8 10ab + 8avb (to make a 9av) + 20-volume developer

Formula B (balayage highlight): Redken Blonde Icing + 20-volume 1:3 ratio


1. Apply Formula A to the regrowth and process at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. Shampoo and deep condition the hair using Kenra Nourishing Masque for 5 minutes, then rinse and dry the hair.

3. Apply Formula B, balayaging the entire head, pin-pointing areas that weren’t icy enough. Process for 20 minutes.

*Note: Marcus normally applies both formulas in one process, however, this client requested a “to the scalp” highlight, and did not want a “melted, rooted” appearance that often results when overlapping lightener onto a processing color.

The Price is Right
When it comes to color correction, the price depends on the amount of labor and product involved notes Marcus. “For this client I charged her for a simple soap cap, which is $60 and that included the Aveda Reconstructive Treatment. I charge my normal prices, but add an additional $15 per hour after the first hour due to the fact that most corrections are time-consuming.” An average price for a double process foil weave on medium length hair starts at $90 for Marcus, but would become $105 after the first hour. “If the correction is four hours long, it would amount to $150. The total for my bridal client was $160,” says Marcus.