From DIY Color to Violet-Blue Melt
This client’s DIY attempt at fashion colors, plus 2 inches of regrowth, was looking preeeetty messy. When she came into Kut Haus Salon in Claremont, Calif. and talked to Yvette Hernandez @bettynicehair, she was ready for a change—and a LOT of professional help.
“During our consultation, I discovered her previous color was done at home with a DIY bleach kit and self-toned purple,” Yvette says. “Obviously her color was inconsistent, and I knew I had to be honest and realistic with her. How her ends lifted would determine her result, and she agreed. With an open mind, an understanding of the long journey ahead and the freedom to be creative, we began her hair story.”
After color-correcting and seeing what they had to work with, Yvette and the client decided to go with a violet rooted color melt with blue ends. It took all day—but the results are fantastic! Check out how Yvette did it.
Starting Level: 2 inches of regrowth in a natural Level 3, a midsection band of pinks and golds of about 6 inches and about 6 inches of Level 5 brown/red ends
Formula A (ends): 40 g Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vario Blond Plus Bleach + 80 grams 35-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder
Formula B (midshaft): 40 g IGORA Vario Blond + 80 g 30-volume developer + b3 Brazilian Bond Builder
Formula C (new growth): 30 g IGORA Vario Blond + 60 g 20-volume developer
Formula D (color balance): 1.5 oz Redken Shades EQ Cream 8GI + 0.5 oz 7C + 2 oz Shades EQ Processing Solution
Formula E (base color): 40 g Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Permanent Hair Color 3/0 + 10 g 4/1 + 5 g 10-volume developer
Formula F: 10 g Joico Color Intensity Sapphire Blue + 20 g Indigo + 5 g Black Pearl
Formula G: 10 g Orange + 20 g Amethyst Purple
Formula H: 10 g Black Pearl + 20 g Orchard
1. Apply Formula A to ends and Formula B to midsection. Process for 30 minutes.
2. Apply Formula C to new growth. Process for 90 minutes
3. Rinse ends. This client’s ends lifted to a gold Level 9, the midsection lifted to a Level 9 with a green/blue hue and her roots lifted to a yellow Level 9.
4. Apply Formula D to towel-dried hair. Process for 20 minutes and blow-dry.
5. Apply Formula E the way you would apply a regular root retouch, then comb through with a wide-tooth weaving comb to ensure there are no visible lines.
6. Apply Formulas F, G and H using a balayage technique, alternating between the formulas so no one color dominates.