Color…Built to Last
By Heather Haemker
Your two o’clock is begging you for bubblegum pink and your teal ombré masterpiece has decided to transition to a mélange of raspberry, mango and blueberry. More and more clients are going for stronger, more lush shades as well as bright and vibrant, which is exciting for colorists, for sure. Whether it’s a natural change of a redhead going more red, a subtle change of your blonde adding hints of pink pastel or more extreme—trading in traditional for neon shades of blue, yellow and green. But when it comes to your Kelly Osbourne, Nicole Richie and Katy Perry wannabes, there are some realities to keep in mind. For example, the ongoing battle between keeping the prelightened hair healthy, and preventing the vivid tones from fading.
“With most vivid and pastel haircolor, the hair has to be prelightened,” observes Ian Michael Black, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Color. “This sometimes can involve lifting above a Level 10; therefore, keeping the hair in the best condition is paramount and will help the color last longer.” Rebecca Taylor, Owner of Vivid.Education agrees, “Prelightening is huge—you have to do it safely, effectively and patiently or the color won’t adhere properly, giving you a hollow, uneven look.” Ian Michael recommends prelightening selectively. “Just lift to the level that’s needed for the color you’re applying,” he advises. “For example, if you are going for a vivid red, you will not need to lift as high as you would for a pastel blue.” Rebecca sends her clients home with sulfate-free shampoos and treatments, along with advice to avoid too-frequent shampooing, warm water (cool water is haircolor’s best friend) and thermal tools.
But the good news? The “It” bright, vivid and pastel shades may shift, but now that convention has been broken, the overall trend promises to continue. So stay alert! “It’s our job as stylists to be in tune to the changing of the season and what colors are in the air,” notes Danny Moon, PRAVANA Guest Artist. “Be ready to create the color of your client’s purse if that’s what she wants. I have!”