Articles > Hair Color > BTC’s COLOR, Cut and Style – COLOR Stage Artists
July 5, 2015

BTC’s COLOR, Cut and Style – COLOR Stage Artists

Are you struggling to keep your blondes color clients from boring you to death? Do you want to know how to do the hottest colors—ranging from those vivid fashion colors to those couture shades? Do your balayage skills need some refining? We cornered some of our COLOR Stage headliners and posed some of your most pressing questions.

BTC’s COLOR, Cut & Style
COLOR Artists Take On Your Most Puzzling Questions

By Jackie Summers

Are you struggling to keep your blonde color clients from boring you to death? Do you want to know how to do the hottest colors—ranging from those vivid fashion colors to those couture shades? Do your balayage skills need some refining? We cornered some of BTC’s COLOR, Cut & Style Stage headliners and posed some of your most pressing questions.

Tickets for COLOR, Cut & Style 2016 go on sale March 31st!

Rose gold?
Sonya Dove, Wella Professionals Creative Ambassador

Q: Everyone is talking about rose gold haircolor at the moment. How would you describe this shade? What type of hair and skin tone would it flatter? What formulas and techniques would you use to achieve rose gold color?

Sonya: To me, rose gold is like a blush or a rose champagne. It’s a little gold, a little rose and a bit of soft coral or peach. Because it’s light, I would only apply this shade to Level 7 or 8 or above without prelightening. It’s beautiful on someone with pale skin and light blue eyes, like Cate Blanchett. One excellent technique on a medium-to-dark blonde client would be to place lots of fine highlights in the hair, then tone with a rose gold toner. One of my favorite formulas is Wella Professionals ILLUMINA equal parts 9/7 + 10/05. The 9/7 is a peachy, strawberry blonde; the 10/05 is pale, red-violet. Mix with Pastel Toner Developer, or use 10- or 20-volume if you want some lift.

Want more top-notch education from the industry’s biggest superstars?
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Mint green?
Ian Michael Black, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Color

Q: I’m obsessed with pale mint haircolor this season. Can you recommend a great mint formula and also provide some tips on how to apply the color, how to prevent it from fading too quickly and how to remove it when my client’s ready to move on to something else?

Ian: Here are two Aveda formulas that I love when creating a pale mint green:

1. 40g Universal 0N + 2g Green Pure Pigment + 42g 5-volume developer

2. 40g Extra Lifting Creme + 4g Green Pure Pigment + 2g Blue Pure Pigment + 46g 5-volume developer.

Keep in mind that as with any color, it will only be as good as the hair you apply it to. Make sure the hair is in the best condition possible, and treat it to a porosity equalizer such as Aveda Equalizing Solution pre-application. This will ensure an even result. Because Aveda colors are all oxidative dyes rather than direct dyes, they can be removed easily with a quick color cleanse once you decide to take your guest to another color. I always recommend a gentle shampoo such as Aveda Color Conserve to keep their color from fading.

Updating blondes?
Kim Vo, Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Global Ambassador

Q: Of all of my color clients, I feel like blondes get into ruts most often. They’re SO afraid to change. How can I subtly alter a “blonde-orexic” to give her something fresh without freaking her out?

Kim: Here is an example of a makeover that I did recently on an overprocessed, uneven blonde shade. The key was to treat the regrowth, midlengths and ends separately for an even, smooth result.

Before—this model was a natural 7-0 with 7-0 regrowth, 9-55 on the lightened ends and gold 9-55 in the middle sections.

1. Pre-treat by spraying Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Pre-Lift Kera Protector through the hair and blow-drying.

2. Apply 30g BLONDME Lifting ICE + 30g BLONDME Lifting Sand + 60g BLONDME Premium Care Developer 9%/30-volume to the regrowth.

3. Apply 90g BLONDME Lifting ICE + 90g BLONDME Premium Care Developer 6%/20-volume to the center sections. Process for 30 minutes, or until desired tone is achieved.

4. Apply 60g BLONDME Toner SAND + 60g BLONDME Premium Care Developer 2%/7-volume to the lightened midlengths and ends, process for up to 30 minutes.

Want more top-notch education from the industry’s biggest superstars?
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Balayage. Why and how?
Nancy Braun, L’Oréal Professionnel Artist

Q: What are the advantages of adding balayage to my service offerings?

Nancy: Honestly, at this point in time, you can’t afford NOT to offer balayage! It’s the most in-demand color service—clients see it on celebrities, on all of the Victoria’s Secret models, and they’re interested. And here’s the best part: when I upsell my single process clients to balayage, I can increase my service revenue by 20 to 30 percent a day! I do something I call the “Balayage Express.” When my single process client is at the shampoo bowl, I’ll pop in a couple of balayage pieces around her face. I’ll say, ‘It’s summer! This will make your hair look like you’ve been on vacation!” I do it for free the first time, but I talk about it and tell her how much it will cost if she wants more next time. And 99 percent of the time, she does! Clients love how quickly and easily balayage brightens their color. You can use it for overall lightening, for surface lifting, for creating dimension, for über blonding the hairline for a halo effect. On brunettes, I like to create a few golden, face frame highlights for a surfer girl effect. It’s a great way to add kick to a long, layered cut! On blondes, I can place a lot of balayage pieces around the face and hairline so the effect is bright, but there’s still depth in the hair and it’s not overprocessed.

Clean sections?
Patrick Kalle, Farouk Systems Global Artistic Director

Q: You’re so well-known for your multicolored hair designs and for your panel approach to haircolor. How do you keep your sections clean and crisp and prevent colors from bleeding together?

Patrick: First, think about isolating your key colors by surrounding them with a much lighter or darker tone. This will draw focus to those shades. Also, I work with CHI Ammonia-Free Haircolor, which doesn’t bleed, even when I place colors back-to-back. That gives me so much creative freedom with my color placement. This model’s formula is a perfect example of my points. Here’s how I created the look:

1. Apply CHI Permanent Shine Haircolor 3N at the root area and out about ½-inch.

2. Isolate two, large, v-shaped panels at the widest part of the head.

3. Apply CHI Chromashine Blue in the lower v-shaped panel and Teal in the upper panel.

4. Throughout the rest of the head, alternate CHI Permanent Shine Haircolor 3N and 4CM. Diffuse the pigments in the hair, and prepare it for toning or re-coloring.

Decolorizer vs. lightener?
Robb Dubré, Kenra Professional Senior Artistic Director

Q: What is the difference between a decolorizer and removing the color with lightener? Under which circumstances should each be used?

Robb: I love using a color remover to cleanse oxidative dye build-up from my canvas. A color remover will not disturb the natural pigment in the hair, so it’s a great tool for someone who has color buildup or would like an all-over color change. Color remover will break down the oxidative artificial pigments in the hair and leave the natural underlying pigment at the level your client had previously. This is a great option for a red client who would like a more natural end result. If you were to just cover up the artificial red it will remain in the hair. Decolorizers or color removers do have limitations; the hair may require several applications in order to remove the color.

Lighteners have the ability to lift both natural and artificial pigments in the hair. I prefer a gentle approach, using a lower (10- or 20-) volume developer. This will diffuse the pigments in the hair, and prepare it for toning or recoloring. Remember to always shampoo and condition with a moisturizing system to help equalize the porosity of the hair.

Best way to lift?
Richy Kandasamy, TIGI® American Technical Director

Q: One of my goals as a new colorist is to achieve the lightest, cleanest, purest platinum shade possible. What is your advice and what would you use?

Richy: To achieve a clean, consistent platinum shade, it is extremely important to thoroughly analyze the hair so you understand where you are coming from and where you must stop the lifting process. I recommend using a lightening powder such as TIGI® copyright©olour true light white with 20-volume/6% activator applied first to the midlengths and ends approximately ¾ inches away from the roots, then going back and applying to the new growth area. Work in very small sections and saturate each one amply. Once you have lifted the hair to a Level 10, very pale yellow, (process up to 40 minutes) shampoo and condition the hair, then apply a demi-permanent toner such as TIGI® copyright©olour gloss 10/02 (10nv), 10/28 (10va) or 10/08 (10na) mixed with 8.5-volume/2.55%-developer, roots to ends and process up to 20 minutes.

Want more top-notch education from the industry’s biggest superstars?
Get Your COLOR, Cut & Style DVD now!

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