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July 26, 2017

6 Tips for Your Best Blend

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Color melting has emerged as THE technique for creating seamless color graduation that looks natural…even when unconventional brights, metallics or pastels are involved. Brush up on your color melting skills with these tips from experts Chrystofer Benson and Danielle Keasling, Matrix artistic directors, and Rickey Zito (@hairgod_zito), b3 brand ambassador. 



1. Stick to a Plan 
Clean sectioning and sketching out a plan are both helpful in keeping melts even and dimensional. For this opal melt, Chrystofer:

  1. Parted a diamond section at the crown
  2. Created ½-inch to 1-inch parallel subsections under each side of the diamond.
  3. By labeling each subsection, he kept his melt consistent throughout the head.




2. Don’t Fold the Foil
When using foils to separate colored sections, don’t fold them—it could cause creases in the color.


3. Use a Dry Brush
Don’t muddy colors by using the same brush to apply and blend color. Apply one color with one brush, then another with another brush about ½ inch below the starting shade, Danielle suggests. Then use a clean, dry brush to blend the two shades together in a vertical feathering motion. This keeps the color bowls untouched by other shades and erases lines of demarcation between colors.



4. Use a Brush AND Your Fingers
A brush-finger combo is best for melting, Rickey believes. Here’s his process:

  1. Apply a shadow root with a brush on a flat section of hair, then apply a second shade with a brush, melting it into the shadow root.“As long as you keep the hair at a 45-degree angle, you can keep going without using your hands,” he said.
  2. At this point, lay the section down on your hand to apply the third color, moving your brush back and forth (not up and down) to saturate the color and using your fingers to scissor and blend between shades.



5. Strengthen Your Sectioning
Apply color in vertical slices in the front, then switch to diagonal slices to follow the natural curve of the head. This allows the colors to crisscross, creating a seamless gradient.




6. Say No to Hollow Spots
The color melt effect can totally be ruined by a patch of blonde peeking through. Avoid hollow spots where the creative color isn’t fully saturated by lifting the hair up and painting the backside. Use a brush or fingers to work the color into each strand.