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July 16, 2015

6 Tips and Formulas For The Most Profitable Color Service On The Planet

6 Tips & Formulas For The Most Profitable Color Service On The Planet

By Jackie Summers

Sure it’s fun to create haircolor palettes featuring swirls of pistachio and powder pink or bold darts of lime and cobalt. But if you’re just starting out your career as a colorist, here’s a piece of advice—something that your more seasoned hair colorist brothers and sisters already know well. Master the art of beautiful, natural-looking, fashionable gray coverage, and you’ll never have to wonder how you’re going to make the next car or rent payment, or whether you’ll be busy a week from Tuesday. You’ll be as busy as you want to be…and you’ll be able to afford very nice vacations when you need to take a break from all of those haircolor clients! See these lovely ladies (and one handsome gentleman) below? Not a single natural strand of haircolor on their heads. (OK, maybe a few of Ben’s are real.) Here’s how to create red carpet-quality color for the 40 and 50+ crowd—as recreated by six color pros!

Katie Couric’s shimmery highlights
Recreated by Rona O’Conner, Celebrity Colorist
Amount of gray: over 40%

Regrowth: Goldwell Topchic 25 ml 7NN + 25 ml 8NA + 50 ml 20-volume developer

Highlights: Goldwell Oxycur Platin Lightener + 20-volume developer

Toner: Goldwell Colorance Express Toning Demi Color 15 ml 10/Champagne + 30 ml Colorance Express Toning Lotion

Apply regrowth formula, process for 30 minutes, rinse, shampoo and condition the hair. Apply the highlight formula in fine weaves or slices and lift to soft ivory—not white! Rinse and shampoo. Apply toner to all strands, process for 5 minutes, rinse and condition the hair.

Lisa Rinna’s chocolate and golden, violet highlights
Recreated by Todd Kane, Matrix Stylist and Master Colorist
Natural level: 5/50% gray

Base: Matrix COLORINSIDER 5N (5.0) + 1 oz. COLORINSIDER 5M (5.8) + 2 oz. 20-volume COLORINSIDER Oil-Cream Developer

Highlights: Matrix Light Master + 10- and 20-volume MATRIX Cream Developer

Toner: Matrix Gloss Sync 1 oz. 7G + 1 oz. 9V + 10-volume MATRIX Cream Developer

Apply the base formula to regrowth in fine subsections, and process for 35 minutes. Highlight medium and thick pieces, alternating the two highlight formulas, softly around the face and bolder throughout the fringe. Process and remove. Tone roots to ends, and process for 10 to 20 minutes.

Todd says: “The brown base kissed with chocolate and balayage highlights is perfect for Lisa’s playful haircut and feisty personality!”

Ben Affleck’s discreet coverage
Recreated by John Simpson, co-founder of CoCre8
Natural level: 5/30% gray

Formula: Goldwell Men ReShade 7CA/Cool Ash + Men ReShade Lotion

Apply this color foam at the shampoo basin, saturating the target light areas, then working through all strands. Process for 5 minutes and shampoo. This service may be performed with each haircut.

John says: “For guys with more salt than pepper, the goal is discreet coverage without a horizontal regrowth. Also, reflective coverage that shadows the pepper in without brassiness or harsh lines should be the goal. If you opt for coverage with permanent color, create a neutral color by combining warm and cool shades to maintain natural sparkle.”

Jodie Foster’s maple and cream soda confection
Recreated by Richy Kandasamy, TIGI® U.S. Technical Creative Director
Natural level: 6/0/dark natural blonde/50%+ gray

Regrowth: TIGI® copyright©olour creative 20g 6/dark neutral blonde + 20g 6/0/dark natural blonde + 60g 20-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator

Highlights: TIGI® copyright©olour lift 20g 100/28/platinum ash violet + 30g 30-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator

Gloss: TIGI® copyright©olour gloss 20g 7/0/natural blonde + 10g 7/3/golden blonde + 45g 8.5-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator

Apply the regrowth formula to all new growth, beginning in the front of the head. Create a triangle shape section comprised of two diagonal forward partings from high recession on each side to the top of the crown, incorporating the natural parting. In the triangle section, work diagonally, and apply the highlight formulas in weave sections to midlengths and ends, blending into the root shade. Isolate with TIGI® copyright©olour Meche Strips, leaving equal amounts of negative space between each section. After highlighting, apply the gloss formula to all remaining midlengths and ends. Process for 35 minutes, shampoo, condition and towel-dry the hair.

Richy says: “The sun-kissed highlights around the fringe area complement Jodie’s skin tone and add depth to the perimeter. If a client’s hair is resistant or coarse, extend the processing time for an additional 5 to 10 minutes.”

Mariska Hargitay’s tawny highlights
Recreated by Mike Petrizzi, Zotos AGEbeautiful Artistic Director
Natural level: 4/50-75% gray

Base: AGEbeautiful Anti-Aging Haircolor Permanent Liqui-Crème 5N + 20-volume developer
Highlights: lightener + 20-volume developer
Gloss: AGEbeautiful Demi Permanent Liqui-Crème Clear 6G + Gentle Crème Developer

Apply the base shade to the regrowth; place ultra-fine weave highlights at the root area that gradually become heavier on the midlengths and ends. Process to a soft, golden shade, remove and apply the gloss formula to all strands.

Mike says: “Mariska is a fantastic example of how tawny highlights add a youthful glow to a hot, smoky brunette. Our 5N is perfect for better-than-natural, rich, sophisticated brunette color with 100 percent gray coverage, and our 6G demi is the ultimate gloss—it’s tawny, cool, controlled and balanced—never orange or brassy!”

Julianne Moore’s rich auburn
Recreated by Eric Mayes, Joico Guest Artist and Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy Expert
Natural level: 6

Base: Joico Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy Permanent Crème Color 1 oz. 6CG+ + ½ oz. 6BG+ + 2 inches INC Copper Intensifier + 1½ oz. 20-volume Veroxide

Midshafts and ends: Joico Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy Permanent Crème Color 1 oz. 6CG+ + ½ oz. 6BG+ + Clear + 2 inches INC Copper Intensifier + 1½ oz. 20-volume Veroxide

Glaze: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome Demi-Permanent Crème Color 1 oz. RC8 + 1 oz. Chrome Clear + 1-inch RY (Really Yellow) Intensifier + 4 oz. Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator

Apply the base formula to regrowth, and the midshafts and ends formula to the remaining strands. Process for 45 minutes at room temperature. Rinse, condition and rough-dry the hair. Apply the glaze formula, and process for 5 to 20 minutes at room temperature.

Eric says: “This rich, warm shade is perfect for Julianne’s skin tone and eye color. The saturated, warm hue adds radiance. A cooler red would make her skin appear dull and washed out.”

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