5 MORE Tips and Formulas For The Most Profitable Color Service On The Planet
By Jackie Summers
See these lovely ladies? Not a single natural strand of haircolor on their heads. Even the silvery strands of the foxy Helen Mirren are refined to produce her glorious, twinkly hue. The result? Red carpet-quality color for the 40 and 50+ crowd! Four color pros recreate the shades.
Helen Mirren’s iced champagne
Recreated by Mike Petrizzi, Zotos AGEbeautiful Artistic Director
Hairline perimeter: AGEbeautiful Anti-Aging Haircolor Permanent Liqui-Crème 10G + 20-volume developer
All remaining strands: AGEbeautiful Demi Permanent Liqui-Crème Clear + Gentle Crème Developer
Mike says: “Helen’s underlit, soft champagne creates depth and fullness, allowing her natural silver color to sparkle. Placing the 10G at the hairline is a great color illusion that makes the hair look thicker, while still appearing natural and age appropriate!”
Sharon Stone’s dimensional blonde pixie
Recreated by Richy Kandasamy, TIGI® U.S. Technical Creative Director
Natural level: 7/0/medium blonde/50%+ gray
Regrowth: TIGI® copyright©olour creative 30g 7/light neutral blonde + 10g 7/23/violet golden blonde + 60g 20-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator
Highlights: 30g TIGI® copyright©olour true light white + 45g 20-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator
Gloss: TIGI® copyright©olour gloss 15g 9/03/very light natural golden blonde + 15g 0/02/natural violet + 45g 8.5-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator
Apply the regrowth formula, beginning in the front. Create a horseshoe section from recession to recession, incorporating the crown. Create a horizontal parting along the occipital, from ear to ear. Beginning in the nape section, alternate textured weaves and placement weaves on diagonal sections, applying the highlight formula to midlengths and ends, and feathering the product into the root areas. In the next section, begin at the front hairline and work diagonally around the head in the same manner, but in opposite diagonal directions. Complete the remaining horseshoe section in a bricklay pattern on slight diagonals and isolate with TIGI® copyright©olour Meche Strips. Process for 35 minutes, lifting highlights to very pale yellow. Shampoo, condition and towel-dry the hair. Apply the gloss to midlengths and ends and process for up to 20 minutes.
Richy says: “Creating depth at the roots with the darker base color and lightness throughout, make this pixie youthful and modern.”
Patti Hansen’s sun-kissed blonde
Recreated by Michael Albor, Matrix Stylist
Natural level: 7/50% gray
Base: Matrix COLORINSIDER 6NW/6.03 + 20-volume COLORINSIDER Oil-Cream Developer
Highlights: Matrix COLORINSIDER 10GV/10.32 + 20-volume COLORINSIDER Oil-Cream Developer
Highlights/face frame: Matrix Light Master + 20-volume developer
Toner: Matrix Gloss Sync SSH GV/Super Sheer Gold Violet
Michael says: “One of the biggest mistakes I see in blonde gray coverage clients is that they are overprocessed and lack dimension. Instead of lighter, these clients need to be brighter. They look best with a deeper base and face framing highlights for pop. Also, warm neutral tones and gold violet tones are more flattering than ash for these clients—this new spectrum of color will not produce brassiness and will not fade to unwanted tones.”
Ellen Barkin’s creamy blonde
Recreated by Richy Kandasamy, TIGI® U.S. Technical Creative Director
Natural level: 7/0/medium blonde/50%+ gray
Regrowth: TIGI® copyright©olour creative 30g 8/light neutral blonde + 20g 10/0/extra light natural blonde + 60g 20-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator
Highlights: 30g TIGI® copyright©olour true light white + 45g 20-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator
Gloss: TIGI® copyright©olour gloss 20g 10/02 + 10g 0/03 + 45g 8.5-volume TIGI® copyright©olour activator
Apply the regrowth formula, beginning in the front of the head, to create a modern, deep root shade. Create a horseshoe section from recession to recession, incorporating the crown. Divide the horseshoe section in half, separating the fringe from the crown area. Create a diagonal back slice from the corner of the front section. Apply the highlight formula to the midlengths and ends, and isolate with a TIGI® copyright©olour Meche Strip. Repeat this placement throughout the fringe, leaving equal negative space between each slice. In the crown area, create diagonal forward slices opposite to the fringe direction. Continue the highlight application. Process for 35 minutes, shampoo, condition and towel-dry the hair. Apply the gloss formula roots to ends, and process for up to 20 minutes.
Richy says: “This neutral, champagne palette is extremely flattering for Ellen’s olive complexion and eye color. When covering non-pigmented hair, remember that it’s important to start your application on the most resistant areas first, and be sure the product is deposited thoroughly, saturating the hair with color.”
Christine Baranski’s honey streaks
Recreated by Eric Mayes, Joico Guest Artist and Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy Expert
Natural Level: 7/50/75% gray
Base: Joico Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy Permanent Crème Color equal parts 8NN + 9GB + 20-volume Veroxide
Midshafts and ends: Joico Vero K-PAK Color Age Defy Permanent Crème Color 8NN + 9GB + Clear + 20-volume Veroxide
Highlights: Joico Vero K-PAK Lightener + 5-volume VeroGlaze Veroxide
Toner: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome Demi-Permanent Crème Color N9 + G9 + Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator
Apply the base and midshaft formulas, rinse, condition and rough-dry the hair. Apply the highlight formula in diagonal foil sections throughout the top and sides, and lift to Level 9. Rinse, shampoo, rough-dry and apply toner. Process for 5 to 20 minutes at room temperature.
Eric says: “This warm, multidimensional/multi-tonal end result is flattering because it adds life and vibrancy to Christine’s skin tone. Like our skin, our hair also loses vibrancy and tone as we age, so adding warmth to the haircolor brightens the total look.”
