Cutting a precision bob or a perfect pixie? Then you need these tips from Phillip Wilson, International Artistic Director of Colorproof Color Care Authority. These four haircutting tips cover everything from the basics (like finding her natural part) to the business (like keeping clients super loyal). Keep reading for all the info we picked up at Colorproof’s Education Training!

1. Cut Using The Client’s Natural Part

Cutting against the client’s natural part is risky because when she combs her hair at home and her natural part is revealed, long pieces might appear. “What do most clients do when they see long pieces?” Phillip asked. “Yep…they cut them. Rather than have someone cut your beautiful work, get it right the first time.” It seems basic, but Phillip said you’d be surprised how many people don’t realize this! Watch the video below to see how he finds the natural part.

2. Select Shear Size For Desired Goal

Phillip moves between a 4½-inch blade and a 7-inch blade. Why? The larger blade is used to create what he calls the “frame” or perimeter, and the smaller blade is used for the cut’s interior. “The more the blade opens and closes, the more room for error,” Phillip said—so the larger blade can cut more hair at once, reducing the chance for error.

3. Curate An Arsenal Of Go-To Products

You should be knowledgeable in every product your salon sells, but have a few go-to workhorse products. Phillip calls them his “Fab 5,” so check them out:

1. Cutting Lotion: A detangler or treatment is a useful cutting lotion because it treats while also keeping the hair wet. “Once the blade goes in and the journey starts, if there is slight drying in areas of the hair, the end result is different,” Phillip said. “So I use a tremendous amount of PureRelease® Instant Detangle.”
2. Gel: Have something that can give a sleek and shiny end result, but can also be used to add texture. Phillip uses PowerSculpt® Hard Hold Gel, a stretchable gel that can be cocktailed for softer, more textured end results.
3. Texture Cream: Select something that acts as a multitasker. For example, FiberBlast® Texture Crème is great for pieceyness, or it can be combined with PowerSculpt and applied to dry hair for more texture.
4. Smoothing Cream: Use a product that acts as both a smoother and conditioner—and bonus points if it includes heat protection. PlushLocks® Leave-In Smooth is Phillip’s go-to before blow-drying for ultimate soft smoothness.
5. Working Hairspray: Choose something that can be layered for both styling and finishing. Phillip likes AllAround® Color Protect Working Hairspray because it’s easy to restyle while still achieving hold.

4. Explore New Cutting Methods To Keep Clients Loyal

Phillip and his wife Mary Wilson, ColorProof’s Director of Education, have developed an in innovative cutting method using double combs and double brushes. Trying new techniques on your clients not only demonstrates that you are bettering your skills through education, but also keeps them loyal—who else do they know that can create a perfect pixie using combs and brushes? Check out ColorProof’s educational offerings here!

Want to up your cutting game? Get the details on creating an A-line bob from Phillip!

Products Used

Conditioners

PureRelease Instant Detangle

ColorProof

Smoothing

PowerSculpt® Hard Hold Gel

ColorProof

FiberBlast® Texture Crème

ColorProof

Hairsprays

AllAround® Color Protect Working Hairspray

ColorProof

Smoothing

PlushLocks® Leave-In Smooth

ColorProof