3 Platinum Blonde Retouch Tips To Avoid Banding

How To Lift Level 4 Roots To Platinum 

Do fears of banding and damage make you dread bleach and tone retouch appointments? We get it. So we asked platinum blonding expert and TRUSS Professional Brand Specialist Roxy Akopyan (@roxybeautytouch) to share her platinum retouch technique on BTC University. Keep scrolling for Roxy’s tips on how to lift lines of demarcation, avoid over-processing and what products your platinum clients need to keep hair healthy between appointments. 

Want to learn it all? Become a BTC-U Member to receive unlimited access to Roxy’s class!

3 Retouch Tips For An Even Lift 

Tip #1: Use a two-step application for more control

Save time and control lift by applying lightener twice—wait, what? That’s right, Roxy uses a double application on platinum retouches to ensure an even, maximum lift in minimal time. Here’s how:

• Application #1: Use small brush strokes to apply lightener straight to the scalp, leaving visible space between the bleach and regrowth line.

“This is an introduction of bleach to the hair,” Roxy explains. “There won’t be a ton of lift because this first step is really about applying lightener to the scalp quickly. This starts the process of lifting the dark natural base.” 

• Application #2: Reapply lightener, this time fully saturating. Use gentle brush strokes to graze the lightener down to the regrowth line, but avoid overlapping. “This is the full, precise application. You want to make sure each section is fully saturated so everything lifts evenly.”

Tip #2: Blend lines of demarcation with cotton

Cotton produces breathable heat, creating a more gentle lift. So Roxy places cotton directly where the line of demarcation meets the prelightened platinum, giving her more control during processing. 

“Anything around the cotton will lift nice and softly, so placing it directly on the regrowth line will achieve the lift I need without damage,” she explains. 

Pro Tip: Place the cotton on the hair GENTLY. “Smashing the cotton down onto the hair will cause the lightener to stick to it,” Roxy explains. “This could remove the product from the hair which can cause banding.” 

Tip #3: How-to avoid over-processing and protect the hair  

Roxy protects her client’s previously lightened hair with the Deluxe Prime Spray from TRUSS Professional. Why? “The ingredients help restore and protect the hair from further damage,” she explains. “Plus, it slows down processing. So if I accidentally get product on the lightened hair, I don’t have to worry about damage.” 

Slide to see the before & after! 

Have questions? Roxy has answers!

One of the benefits of watching a course on BTC University? Artists are able to answer your questions in REAL TIME! Here are some technical questions viewers had for Roxy during her livestream:

Question: Do you ask your clients to have clean hair for their retouch appointment?

Answer: “I do not. I ask my client to not wash their hair two to three days prior to their appointment, because I want as much protection on the scalp as possible. When hair is freshly washed all of the dead skin is gone. If I apply bleach on top of a clean scalp, it can cause more irritation and scabbing. 

Q: What products do you recommend for platinum clients to keep hair healthy between appointments? 

A: “I absolutely love (and my clients agree) the TRUSS Professional Blond shampoo and conditioner. The shampoo works like a purple shampoo but it is not purple. Most purple shampoos are so deep and opaque that when clients use them their hair will develop purple hues. The TRUSS Blond shampoo leaves the hair vibrant blonde without any muddy tones. I also send my clients home with the TRUSS Miracle Mask because it hydrates and restores the hair which is super important for blondes.”

Click the beaker for Roxy’s full formula!

• Formula A (lightener)

  TRUSS Professional Blanc Blond Lightening Powder + TRUSS Professional 8X Powder + 10-volume developer (1:2)

• Formula B (all-over toner)

  TRUSS Color Perfect Blond 11.21 + 6% developer 

Become a BTC-U Member to learn Roxy’s entire technique & receive unlimited access to her course!