Articles > 3 Ammonia-Free Fashion Color How-Tos
March 31, 2017

3 Ammonia-Free Fashion Color How-Tos

Achieving those vibrant shades requires some major prelightening, which can mean major damage, right? Nope! It is possible to give your client the creative color she craves without the ammonia and other chemicals in most haircolor lines. We got the scoop at ahavah ORGANIC SpALON, a gorgeous salon space in in Barrington, Ill., that focuses on organic salon services.

Achieving those vibrant shades requires some major prelightening, which can mean major damage, right? Nope! It is possible to give your client the creative color she craves without the ammonia and other chemicals in most haircolor lines. We got the scoop at ahavah ORGANIC SpALON, a gorgeous salon space in in Barrington, Ill., that focuses on organic salon services.

 


ahavah ORGANIC SpALON

 

Organic Colour Systems took over the salon for the day for a Fashion Colours Workshop, demonstrating that it’s possible to achieve fashion colors on any hair shade without the damage. Because the brand uses certified organic ingredients and does not use ammonia, the lifting process is more gentle. Every Organic Colour Systems service starts with a Wet Stretch Test to determine the hair’s current condition, then it’s treated with a product that addresses the hair’s specific need—protein or moisture. Check out this Wet Stretch Test on a client with both highlighted and natural hair!

 

 

The results of the Wet Stretch Test dictate which treatment to use, a crucial step in the Organic Colour Systems service. The treatments optimally prep the hair to accept color AND feel healthier—all without the chemicals of typical haircolor. If the hair stretches and returns, which is ideal and indicates the hair has a good balance of moisture and protein, the Status Quo range maintains that health. If the hair does not stretch, that means moisture is needed, so the Aqua Boost Treatment is ideal. If the hair stretches and ribbons or does not return, that means protein is missing. The Power Build Cream Treatment will help restore moisture. If the hair breaks, that means protein is crucial, and the Power Build Revamp Treatment is required. Click here to learn more about the Wet Stretch Test and how to treat the hair.

 

Check out how ahavah lead colorist Tracey Burnap and Jeanine Mantisi, Organic Colour Systems National Salon Educator for North America, transformed their models during the Fashion Colours Workshop!

 

Want to learn more from Organic Colour Systems?
Check out their education!

 

Alina: Blue Color Melt

Natural Level: 5, then prelightened with Naturlite Lightening Powder + Naturlite Oil + Cream Activator 12% 

 


Before

 


Organic Colour Systems Color Formulas
Formula A (root): Blue Concentrate + Liquid Activator 3%

Formula B (mids): 15g 11HS + 15g Blue Concentrate + Liquid Activator 3%

Formula C (ends): 15g 11HS + 5g Blue Concentrate + Liquid Activator 0% + Liquid Activator 3%

 


Mid-process

 

How-To
1. Perform a Wet Stretch Test at the roots, mids and ends. The test revealed Alina’s hair stretched and returned, which is a sign of balanced hair. But since she was recently lightened, she received the Power Build Revamp Treatment.

2. Apply Formula A to the roots.

3. Apply Formula B to the mids, melting into Formula A.

4. Apply Formula C at the ends. The group mixed the 0% and 3% activators to make a 5-volume developer.

5. Process and rinse in cool water. Apply Aqua Boost Treatment for 5 minutes to infuse moisture and close the cuticle, then rinse.

6. Blow-dry, then apply Shape and Texture.

 


After

 

Kaisa: Pops of Pink

Natural Level: 6, and previously highlighted with Naturlite Lightening Powder + Liquid Activator 6%

 


Before

 

Organic Colour Systems Color Formulas
Formula A: 25g XBV + 25g Liquid Activator 3%

Formula B: 10g Silver Concentrate + 10g XBV + 5g XBR + 25g Liquid Activator 3%


Mid-process

 

How-To
1. Perform a Wet Stretch Test at the roots, mids and ends. The test revealed Kaisa’s hair stretched and broke at the roots, stretched and did not return in the mids, and stretched and broke at the ends. These results revealed that Kaisa should get the Power Build Cream Treatment on her mids and the Power Build Revamp Treatment on her roots and ends, so the cream treatment was first applied all over the head, then Revamp was layered over the top.

2. Take slices of Formula A randomly throughout the head where you want pops of violet.

3. Take slices of Formula B randomly throughout the head where you want pops of pink.

4. Process and rinse in cool water. Apply Aqua Boost Treatment for 5 minutes to infuse moisture and close the cuticle, then rinse.

5. Apply Thermal 2 Twenty for heat protection and Volume for lift, then blow-dry. Finish with Argan Oil Gloss. 

 


After (it was a little windy!) 

 

Heidi: Hidden Panels

Natural Level: 5, with some prelightened pieces scattered throughout.


Before

 

Organic Colour Systems Color Formulas
Formula A: No Limits Violet + No Limits Blue

Formula B: No Limits Orange

Formula C: No Limits Yellow


Mid-process

How-To
1. Perform a Wet Stretch Test at the roots, mids and ends. The test revealed Heidi’s hair mostly stretched and returned, but in the mids and ends, there was some stretching with no return. She received the Power Build Cream Treatment.

2. Apply Formula A to select prelightened pieces at the root, melting into Formulas B and C.

3. On other prelightened pieces, apply only Formula A.

4. Process and rinse in cool water. Apply Aqua Boost Treatment for 5 minutes to infuse moisture and close the cuticle, then rinse.

5. Apply Status Quo Protect Leave-In Treatment, then apply Root-Lift for volume. Blow-dry and use Revive Dry Shampoo for texture. Finish with Finale for hold.

 


After

 

Thanks for having us, ahavah and Organic Colour Systems!


Jeanine, Kaisa, Alina, Tracey and Heidi