20 Color, Cut, Styling, Business and Life Tips From Joico 2016 Destination Education
Take 900 hairdressers, thirsty for education. Add legendary educators Sue Pemberton,
Vivienne Mackinder, Martin Hillier, Neil Ducoff, Ben Mollin and Drea Lecher. Throw in
a heaping helping of beauty icon Trevor Sorbie. Garnish with a rocking ‘80s party and
a closing night White Party. Serve it all up in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Enjoy for six
days. There you have the recipe for the unforgettable 2016 Joico Destination Education.
Nobody left Joico’s 2016 Destination Education event empty-headed. Each day provided vast quantities of information and inspiration for the 900 attendees in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Top artists and experts Trevor Sorbie, Sue Pemberton, Vivienne MacKinder, Neil Ducoff, Ben Mollin and Drea Lecher had so much to share! Here’s a sample of the life- and business-changing advice that DE attendees received!
When prelightening for a copper result, lift no higher than Level 8.
10 is the Number for Prelightening
As in 10-volume. Joico International Creative Color Director Sue Pemberton rarely goes higher. “Does it lift? It does,” Sue asserts. “In 20 to 30 minutes it will lift to Level 8 or 9, and most important, the hair will stay healthy.”
Hate it? Fix it.
“I learned long ago if I do a color and I’m not 100% happy, I change it,” says Sue. “If I don’t, it walks out the door with my name on it. It might only need a small tweak that takes 10 minutes. It’s worth the time.”
Custom Brush Work
Color brushes not working for you? No problem—just cut them! “Cut your brushes based on the color results you want to achieve,” suggests ISO Guest Artist Drea Lecher. “Nip into the tips, cut angles—whatever you need to do. And do it right in front of your client so she can see that you’re customizing her color service!”
Lower Lift for RC, V or RV
When prelightening for a red copper, violet or red violet result, notes Sue, lift the hair no lighter than Level 8. Doing so will leave enough underlying pigment to support these colors and prolong their longevity.
Timing the Talk
“I often didn’t have a conversation about changing a client’s color,” admits Sue,
“because I didn’t have time. But we must check in with clients and see if they are happy or ready for something new. If you don’t ask, they may leave. So I decided to wait until the client’s color was processing to bring up the subject. If they said they were up for a change I would say, ‘OK, next time I’m going to book you for an extra half hour and we’ll do something different.’ And remember, it doesn’t have to be a big change—many color clients are easily updated with a few lowlights and a one or two level lift.”
Most colorists look at the skin tone when formulating color. But Drea has a secret for selecting the most flattering hue every time. “Look at the eye color,” she advises. “But not the primary eye color—the secondary eye color. Whatever color that is—warm or cool—will be the most flattering color on your client. This is especially helpful when working with reds.”
Even the most experienced balayagers are challenged by keeping their work clean. Handpainting means working with your fingers and it’s hard to prevent product from straying. Here’s Sue’s trick. When applying the lightener or haircolor, place the hair on the back of your gloved hand, brush on the lightener or color and gently release the section. This technique leaves your fingertips clean so you won’t spread unwanted product when you pick up each subsequent section.
Look Before You Cut
When doing disconnection, notes Joico Guest Educator Martin Hillier, lift the section, let a small amount of hair drop from your comb and see where it falls. That’s how you know how the end result will look.
The “L” Word
Here’s a time-saving razor-cutting method from Special Guest Vivienne MacKinder. It’s the “L” technique. Softly stroke the razor downward along the hair strand and then across in the motion of the letter L and you’ll cut the interior and exterior in one motion. “With scissors, you have to do the perimeter and then go back and do the interior—essentially two cuts,” explains Vivienne. She adds, “Remember, when working with a razor, it’s all in the thumb and wrist. Work with a very light touch—do not ‘hack’ at the hair!”
The trick to cutting fades? “Walk away!” says ISO Guest Artist Ben Mollin. “Tunnel vision will kill you. You have to keep stepping away to make sure your cut is balanced!”
Try All the Angles
When we cut, we’re often locked into 90 degrees, 45 degrees, notes Martin. But angles change all the time. It’s ok to work with a 43 degree angle or a 55 degree angle if it produces the shape you want. Don’t get hung up on your angles!
Rules of Overdirection
“If you want heavy weight, overdirect with a steep angle. If you want less weight, use less overdirection,” says Martin. “Push the hair over with your hands before cutting so you’ll see where it lands.”
Want to get a head start on beating frizz? Before cutting, apply water, followed by a smoothing balm like Joico Heat Set Blow Dry Perfecting Crème. The formula will provide plenty of “slip” while cutting, and the hair will look glossy and shiny once it’s dry.
She’s Come Undone
Here’s how Vivienne produces an “undone” look while blow drying:
1. Divide the hair into vertical sections
2. Twist each section around a round brush
3. Direct the section away from the face.
4. Dry and release.
Want to create sexy, undone volume without backcombing? The mini-crimper is your best friend. Simply clamp the little tool at the roots for an instant boost of invisible volume!
Salon Business Expert Neil Ducoff
Take Partials Off the Menu
Get rid of “partial color” as a menu item says Ben Mollin. What does that even mean? Instead, list your color services as “Color starts at $XX,” and price each service accordingly. “Or price it according to the bag she carries and the car she drives,” laughs Ben.
Appreciation Costs Nothing
You can’t get to “Level 10” without your team, says Salon Business Expert Neil Ducoff. “You have to keep them engaged and keep pulling them up,” he says. “One of the most effective team-building elements is appreciation. People work really hard, and a handshake and a thank-you go a long way. It costs you nothing to say thanks.”
Hold Yourself Accountable
This one’s for owners and leaders. “As a leader,” says Neil, “your job is to hold everyone accountable, including yourself. You may not have a boss to answer to, but you have to answer to your company and your people. The more ideas and dreams that die, the more disillusioned your good people will become. If you launch a new initiative and don’t see it through, you’re pursuing mediocrity. Deliver what your promise to earn trust. Trust is at the core of leadership.”
The legendary Trevor Sorbie
Embrace Hair History
“As older hairdressers,” notes Martin, “we forget how much we can share with young people. You never think what you learned years ago can be useful, but so many of those techniques can be updated and implemented today.”
Rise and Shine
“I’ve never gotten out of bed to make money,” says award-winning stylist and salon owner Trevor Sorbie. “I get out of bed to be the best hairdresser, and if I am, I will make money.”