16 Tips for Cutting the Perfect Bob

Bobs are a total classic—timeless and nuanced and always en vogue. There are so many different ways to go, each style just as perfect as the next. But while it looks like a simple, short cut, every stylist knows it’s anything but. There are a million different ways it could go wrong! Especially for those just starting out. Whether it’s finger position, stance, method…it’s a hard style for many stylists to get the hang of! When one of our very own BTC members found herself struggling, she reached out to her friends and peers for a little bit of advice:

“I’m having a problem with cutting bobs. The right half of the hair always cups in correctly after blow-drying, but the left half always flips out from the nape area through the ear area. At first I thought it was just the way the client’s hair grew, but it seems to be this way on every client I cut with that hairstyle. Does anyone have this problem? Are my shears in need of sharpening?”

Here’s what you had to say!

1. “A coworker of mine had taught me to have the client turn their head, so you can keep cutting a straight line. This worked out great for me, along with undercutting.”  –Cathy Goedtel

2. “I don’t like to use brushes when I dry, because I like them to be able to do their hair at home. And after drying, I always double check.” –Cathy Goedtel

3. “Release the tension, use your comb instead of your fingers and take in to account the direction and growth of the hairline.” –Shay Hazelwood Keller

4. “Remember that short hair pushes the longer hair so your sectioning is very important, as is the way you comb the hair and have it lay on the neck.” –Shay Hazelwood Keller

5. “Have your client look down but have them sit up straight and tilt to either side to check movement and direction.” –Shay Hazelwood Keller

6. “When the hair is dry and you think you are finished, have the client look in the mirror and tilt her head from side-to-side then comb her hair and check if there are any stray little hairs. Then have her do the same thing but looking down instead of in the mirror.” –Shay Hazelwood Keller

7. “After the hair is cut and dried, place your hand held mirror on her shoulder with the reflective part looking at the bottom of her hair—you will be able to see if there are still any stray hairs.” –Shay Hazelwood Keller

8. “Your body position can cause hair to flip if you are standing slightly off center or angling the hair wrong.” –Shay Hazelwood Keller

9. “It also might be that you are taking too big of sections. Try making sure your hair is coming straight from the head at every snip and not angled without you realizing it. Use your chair so you’re not contorting to see.” –Shay Hazelwood Keller

10. “Comb all the hair (even the sides) straight back and cut straight across the back. Then part down the middle and make sure there no tags. This helps me get my sides even. Then layer as normal.” –Marie Vincent

11. “You are cutting graduation unintentionally into the interior. Using the wide teeth of a cutting comb and not using your fingers will help.” –Carlyn Ackerman

12. “Also, combing the hair, tapping it onto the skin with your shears, cutting shear-under-comb and keeping your stationary blade next to the skin should help.” –Carlyn Ackerman

13. “Never lose sight that every cut you make will have the hair fall in the opposite direction. If you want the hair to fall forward in the front, you have to cut it going back. Starting with the center of the back, cut in both directions in order for it to fall in together.” –Matthew Samaha

14. “Cutting from past experiences allows more of the past experience to result. Let this thought pattern go and create a new one. Tools and products are so readily and easily blamed when most of the time it’s you. Allow yourself to focus.” –Gaetano Zammit

15. “Try cutting the perimeter wet, no layering, then dry the hair with a round brush. Then go through and cut the layers dry.” –Paige Wilhite

16. “Make sure you cross-check your layers. If you cut them vertically, check them horizontally. If one side is slightly longer it will “push” the hair or make it flip.” –Paige Wilhite