11 Top Cut, Color, Style and Barbering Tips from Premiere Orlando
First the disclaimer: Premiere Beauty 2014 in Orlando was so chock full of great education, we simply couldn’t get to everything. But we headed out with iPads, cameras and notebooks and did our best to gather some useful tips, from top artists like Beth Minardi, Martin Parsons and the Doves. Here are 11 great ideas for everything you do!
1. Curing the Chicken Blonde
There’s one in every salon—the blonde-orexic client who insists on a Level 13 white, white, white. To bring some reality into this “chicken blonde” shade, says BTC Favorite Educator of the Year Beth Minardi, proceed with care. Mix up the following crème demi-permanent lowlight formula: 1 ½ oz. 9BG + ½ oz. 8BV + ¼ oz. Clear + 2 ¼ oz. 5-volume developer. Apply to select strands of the overly white hair. “Concentrate on sections under the ears, under the occipital and well behind the hairline,” Beth advises. “Do not place any of the lowlights around the hairline, off of the part or anywhere else around her face or she’ll scream bloody murder!”
2. The Right White
Porcelain is the goal for summer blondes, declares TIGI U.S. Technical Director Richy Kandasamy and International Technical Director Christel Lundqvist—the shade looks as crisp and clean as freshly laundered sheets. To achieve the right white, use a pearl-toned toner with a dash of light violet blue blonde, and be sure to prelighten evenly and completely. To create the sophisticated shade of porcelain shown here, Richy used the following formulas: Prelighten with TIGI copyright©olour Powder Lightener True Light White + 20-volume developer and then tone with the new TIGI copyright©olour gloss 10 Series 35g 10/02 + 5g 9/21 + 85-volume activator.
3. Hyper Pastels
Pastel hues have been popular for some time, declares Aveda Global Artistic Director for Hair Color, Ian Michael Black, and they’re not going away any time soon.This summer, though, look for pumped up pastels with more vibrancy—placed on discreet sections rather than all over the head. Also, consider using warm and cool tones for a tie-dyed effect—pink with blue, green with yellow, etc. Finally, combine pastels with deeper hues within the same palette—like a powder blue bob that transitions to royal blue for an ultra-chic approach.
4. This is Where Ombré is Heading
Traditional ombré color is characterized by darker base tones, gradually morphing into lighter ends, says Matrix Artistic Director Chrystofer Benson. But now, ombré is evolving into a more gradient approach—dark, medium, light, medium, dark—which frames light within the strand and creates sophisticated shine lines. When creating these effects, work off of a triangular section at the top of the head.
5. Testing, Testing
Figuring out how quickly and how well hair will lift is tricky business, say Keune’s Roy Peters and George Alderete. So don’t leave it up to luck or fate—do a test strand instead. Snip or isolate a small section from beneath the occipital and head to the back room. Apply a Level 10 high lift formula, wrap the hair in foil and heat the foil for 10 seconds. The results will indicate how the hair will look after it has been lifted for 45 minutes. If it’s not light enough, repeat the test with lightener.
6. Off Guard
It’s a classic, OMG barbering moment—you’re clippering away and suddenly your guard pops off, resulting in a very unfortunate bald spot. “If that happened to me,” says Eddie Gomez, owner of Florida’s Greatest Barbershop; stylist for sports stars like Cliff Floyd from the Miami Marlins and Josh Samuda from the Minnesota Vikings; and guest artist for El Patron. “I’d start combing and combing, and slowly blending all the hair around it so that eventually the bald patch wasn’t noticeable. Stay calm and remember, it’s all about turning negatives into positives!”
7. C-Shaped Comb Control
Do you feel like you’re all thumbs when it comes to scissor-over-comb or clipper-over-comb cutting. Try C-Shaped Comb Control from the pros at Wahl Clipper—it will give you more mobility and dexterity while working quickly. Place the heel of the comb in the palm of your hand with the teeth pointing up. Then place your thumb on the backbone of the comb and your pointer finger on top, creating a c-shape with your thumb and pointer. Your middle finger curves behind the comb around your pointer finger for control. To turn the comb, gently and slowly move your pointer finger away from you while pulling your thumb toward you, and gently and slowly rotate your arm until your palm faces you and the teeth point down. In this position, your thumb will be on top while your pointer and middle finger secure the bottom. Practice this motion several times, then practice while moving your arm up and down!
8. Shine Factor
The coiled structure of curly hair expands the cuticle, notes Aveda Global Artistic Director for Textured Hair, Tippi Shorter, and as a result, curly hair often lacks shine. So always use a shine-enhancing product like Aveda Brilliant Spray-On Shine when styling this texture, for polish and to control flyaways.
9. Hide it Here
Ever wonder where the lengths go when you’re creating a faux bob? Here’s how Wella Color Ambassador Christopher Dove does it—he gathers up all the lengths below the occipital and creates flat, cornrow braids to tuck them out of sight securely!
10. Pin Pointers
Martin Parsons, the master of gorgeous upstyles, had plenty to say about the art of pinning hair! For secure hold, criss-cross your pins. When pinning a bun in place, pin from the sides to hide the pins. And to avoid disturbing pins once your look is finished, simply direct your spray in the direction of the style (usually up) and gently sweep over the surface of the style with the back of your comb.
11. What Lies Beneath
Full, thick hair is everyone’s dream—unless you’re trying to create a sleek haircut! When faced with that situation, says Wella Color Ambassador Sonya Dove, it’s undercut to the rescue! Crop an occipital section to remove bulk at the nape and the cut will sit beautifully close to the head without bulk.
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