10 Tips You Need To Master Layers + Fringe

With the shag making a major comeback, mastering your layering and fringe skillset is more important than ever. From guiding your client to choose the best fringe for her face shape to executing those precise, face-framing layers—every small detail counts!

To get all the best tips and techniques, we attended Wella Professionals‘ four-day cutting methodology class with Global Education Academy Dean Stephen Moody and Signature Studio Artist Oliver Shortall in the Wella Studio Atelier Chicago at the Fuga Centro Salon & Spa. After four days of nonstop education, we’ve rounded up everything you need to perfect your client’s dream haircut!

Rock The Fringe 
A fringe of some variety can fit almost anyone. Mastering your layers and fringe will open endless possibilities of increasing your average ticket by combining customized color and styling. They will also allow you to create unique looks that fit your client’s individuality!

1. Things to be aware of prior to cutting: hairlines, widow’s peaks, whirls and cowlicks.

2. Pay close attention to the density of your client’s hair.

3. Work out what shape is best with your client’s features utilizing the mirror.

• Narrow fringes are best for clients with wide-set eyes.
• Square fringes bring out cheekbones and elevate facial features.
• Round fringes are hard to wear. On most face shapes, they may tend to drag down a woman’s features.
• Layered fringes remove weight. They are soft and very flattering on a lot of clients with various face shapes.

4. The width of a fringe is equally as important as the length.

5. Cutting your client’s fringe at eyebrow length is best done in the comb.

6. “Hairdressers are very concerned with what is going on at the back of the head,” shares Stephen. “Fringes are very important because they are what the client sees everyday.”

Stephen Moody believes, “Fringes are like makeup for a woman.”

Master The Layered Look
1. A major key to creating great layers are clean and precise sections.

2. Layering is a technique that removes volume and often reveals texture. The stylist’s body position and overdirecting the hair can affect the shape of the layers. Square layers require standing at the back, the front and the side of the head. With round layers, start at the front and walk around the head.

3. Cross-checking is SO important. Using perpendicular sections, control the hair with the with the same tension, overdirection and elevation to monitor the balance and maintain cleanliness.

4. In many ways, cutting the hair is not difficult…Controlling the hair before it gets to the scissors is often tricky and the most critical part of cutting hair—a key element of Wella EIMI Cut Craft.

Watch and learn how Antonio Favaro (owner of Fuga Salon & Spa!) cuts a square fringe in under ten minutes in the video below!

Finished Look