10 Tips to Cut A Perfect Bob

A bob haircut is one of the most classic, fundamental cuts in a stylist’s skillset. It has evolved so much over time, but there are key elements that will always remain the same. Do you know your way around a bob? Bob master Traci Sakosits (@tracisak_hair), Sassoon Regional Creative Director, shared her 10 tips for crafting a perfect bob each and every time.

1. Determine the length.

When establishing the perimeter of a bob, it is important to choose a length that will be flattering on both the client’s hair texture and bone structure. Remember that the eye will be drawn to the perimeter so choosing a flattering length is key.

2. Map the head.

Because bobs are so much about the shape, an initial assessment of the hair line, growth patterns, and bone structure before and after the shampoo can help anticipate unexpected jumps or movement that may take away from the strong shape you want to create. 

3. Watch the body position.

A natural body position is important for achieving balance of the line. The head should not be tilted too far forward, and the legs and arms should not be crossed. This can deceive your perception of the line of balance when you go to cut and when the body returns to its natural position, the line will often be off.

4. Keep your sections clean and small.

Sections should mirror the desired geometry. Once your perimeter is established, your sections will be parallel to the shape you are wanting to create. Be sure to keep them small, clean and consistent.

5. Keep it loose.

A minimal amount of tension is ideal when cutting a bob. The tension amount is determined by the hair’s texture, density and growth patterns. Using little to no tension allows us to cut to natural fall and will give us the most accurate result. It will also help ensure you give your client a cut that is wearable and tailored to them specifically. The tension should also be adjusted for the shape of the skull and the ears.

6. Stay low.

Cut each section on the skin or through the teeth of the comb to avoid elevation. Once you start to raise the section is when you will create graduation and over-direction.

7. Natural fall.

When combing a section to cut, make sure to comb the hair from roots to ends in the position it would fall naturally. This helps to keep the haircut consistent to the shape of the head and the way your clients hair naturally lives. It also helps to avoid over-direction when creating a geometric line.

8. True position.

When cutting the hair through the sides and front, cut the line in the position the hair will be worn. This will help avoid creating unwanted graduation or a rounding of the line.

9. Even distribution.

When working on a client that wears a side part, it is important to ensure even distribution. The parting should be able to move diagonally from the side it is worn, back to the center crown and still maintain an even shape.

10. Check the cut.

As you blow-dry the hair, work through the cut in the same manner and sections that you used to cut, starting at the nape. It can be helpful to check as you go as you can often see the areas that need tweaking while you are drying. Perform one final check for unwanted graduation and symmetry once the hair is dry. 

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