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Posted By:pokepres on: 12/26/2006 7:31:12 PM


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Author: Thread: Layers at the bottom
pokepres
Posts: 81

Layers at the bottom
Posted: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 7:31:12 PM
i keep having the same problem with layering just the bottom of the hair! I generally hold the hair down and out as if to make a wedge/bubble/stack except i hold my fingers like this symbol / with my elbow toward the head and i cut above the knuckle...the result every time leaves me with layers at the bottom BUT every time, the last layer is alot longer than the others and it pretty much looks like i completely missed that section of hair and i end up having to cut off length...what is a good technique to cutting layers just at the bottom...it seems so simple, yet i can't figure it out!!

HAIRGEEK
Posts: 162
Bronze Member

Posted: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 8:18:23 PM
HI, Pokepres. I may help you with that one.
There are many ways to cut layers at the bottom. The classic way to do it is by using elevation: you will start sectioning just like classic bob, below o-bone, taking small sections horizontally and cutting the same way as classic bob,exept you will elevate first section slightly (how much elevation is up to you- it can be as little as half inch or as much as 45 degrees away from the skin). Next, pick up part of a guide that you have just cut along with your new section cutting horizontaly exept this section is higher than the section prior. So as you get to the top each section will increase higher and higher. When you check your line at the bottom it will not look straight across as you would have with a classic bob, it will look some what shadered or more like an eye lush finish to it.
The sections look a lot like christmas tree: the bottom branches are farr apart and as you get to the top they gradually get higher and higher all around. You will end up with lots of layers at the bottom only and hole lot of movement. What I just described is a classic internal graduation.
Have fun and hope that this is helpfull!

pokepres
Posts: 81

thanks
Posted: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 8:46:51 PM
I never tried cutting horizontally...I'll give it a shot, THANKS!!

ceelynne
Posts: 9

Posted: Monday, January 29, 2007 8:06:17 AM
Great discription hair geek. Sounds like 45degree layers.  I'm only comfortable with 90 degree layers but I'm going to give this a try

2funkyforyou
Posts: 9

layers
Posted: Monday, January 29, 2007 1:24:53 PM
we are talking about layers . How do you get lots of layers and wisps around the face (face framing so that it is the same on both sides thanks!

HAIRGEEK
Posts: 162
Bronze Member

face framing
Posted: Monday, January 29, 2007 2:19:38 PM
Hi, 2funkyforyou.

Take a small triangle at a center (almost like a small deep bang area) establish a guide (the shortest point).

You have several options as far as what kind of effect you are looking for. Example:

If you elevate a first section (the guide) at 45degrees according to the floor,towards the face, then gradually, taking small sections on ither side of a triangle & bring it to the guide (overdirect it to the original guide) still kipping it at 45, including all the hair around a face up to the middle of the ear. Why up to the middle, because the rest of the hair, even if it makes it, really belong to the back and if you include that you will be altering the lenght at the back- not a good idea.
So if you cut frame by elevating it at 45 you will get a very soft, very moving face frame layers & no harsh visible lines.

The other option is to cut your first section ( guide) just like if you were to cut a bang area straight down, but not horizontally- you are going to hold it between your fingers vertically, but as close to the face as possible, at the lenght that you are looking for (chick bone, jaw, collar...etc.). Then gradually bring small sections from ether side, up to the middle of the ear. Doing it on this angle- you will get stronger line around the face. So it all depends on the desired look.

So ones you cut those sections, bring the rest of the hair ( that you haven't included into a face framing) to lay around a face, just like if it were to fall naturally- and look at it! If there is any pieces within a frame that uppear off, or frame does not connect with the lenght visually, then you just simply going to 'visually' marry em together. I prefer using slithering or point cutting technic to do that & for adding more wisps, doing it again visually.

You can do a precition cut all over, but to make it 'perfect' always finish of using your creative visual sence. :)




wazzup2069@yahoo.com
Posts: 12

Face framing
Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 4:59:05 AM
Hi to all this morning. Try using a razor to finish up around the face. You can really create some beautiful wisps . Have a great day.

2funkyforyou
Posts: 9

layers
Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 12:45:28 PM
dear hairgeek! thanks for the great info,i will definitely use this in the salon(i will try it on my manequin head first HA HA)