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Bulletin Boards > Cut and Style > getting face framing right!!

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Posted By:carrie on: 11/22/2004 4:07:43 PM

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Thread: getting face framing right!!

carrie
Posts: 47

getting face framing right!!
Posted: Monday, November 22, 2004 4:07:43 PM

Help! My haircuts flow along smoothly...until I get to finishing the front. Many of my clients want their bangs cut to nose length (I have less trouble if I start below the chin)...and then face framed down to the length...I have trouble making my sides look even...and also I'm not sure how far back to pull hair forward to make it blend...I leave the face framing until the all over head layering is finished...most of the time I overdirect the front hair to the back when layering..but when I get up front...to face frame...cut my starting point...I have a hard time blending down to the bottom of the hair....and doing it the same on both sides of the head. Also...I pull the hair forward from the ear ....is that right? I find sometimes that once I do that and use my starting point at the front..and overdirect the hair so I don't lose too much length as I frame down the front of the face...that when I am finished cutting and comb the hair to fall naturally...I end up with pieces amongst my cut hair that are too long...so i go back and keep over directing until it seems I get rid of the longer pieces..but I don't understand why they show up....!!! Is there an easier way to face frame...and am I pulling the hair from too far back? I hope this makes sense....thx for any help...it would cut a lot of time from my haircuts if I could master this!!

vallygrrl
Posts: 1280
Platinum Member

Posted: Monday, November 22, 2004 4:53:21 PM

Get the Robert Cromeans, wax works video, it shows an awesome face framing technique. God bless

jenkr22
Posts: 5

answer for carrie
Posted: Monday, November 22, 2004 6:50:56 PM

what you need to do is create facial guides on each side of the face three of them for example the eyes, the chin and middle of the neck depending and the style and length. Create your guide in front. When i do face framing i overdirect the hair in front of the face never to the back. Stand facing the client from your dominant side and cut downhill, from your weak side stand facing the same direction as your client and come around the side of her also cutting downhill. it is awkard at first but mistake free. I personally never overdirect hair from the back past the back of the ear and then round the corner that is created. I had the same problem and this works great. Then go ahead and texturize for a softer look or choppy look. Good Luck

tdub
Posts: 185
Bronze Member

Posted: Monday, November 22, 2004 7:27:27 PM

I take a slight diagonal back parting about an inch from the hairline down to the front of the ear. pull it staight out from the parting (my company calls this 'T' to the part) and cut from the bottom up. not perpendicular to my fingers, but more like cutting straight up into my fingers. this gives you that perfect face framing.

Anonymous

Posted: Monday, November 22, 2004 9:32:07 PM

I do it exactly the way Tdub described and it is PERFECT! This method also allows you to take into account the geometry of the face in a three dimensional way, as when you are holding the hair out T to the parting, it is at a 45 degree angle to the face. You can "torque" the hair slightly to account for the rounding and the hair will then perfectly frame the face when you are done. I usually take a second parting about an inch wide behind the first one and just follow the guide of the first parting. You don't need to go any further than the center of the ear for this as hair behine that should naturally go back instead of forward.

carrie
Posts: 47

thx
Posted: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 12:40:16 PM

Thanks for the help I've gotten so far...I'll play around with it...I'm hoping I understand the T thing...will have to get someone in my chair and see if it makes sense when I hold it like that...I won't cut unless it does, I promise!! I also like the idea of making three (if the highest point is as high as the eyes) guides...but it doesn't fix having those longer hairs there once I am done face framing...I never do pull hair from behind the ears...as for cutting from the bottom up on the T ...if they have a specific length for the shortest layer..wouldn't I need to start from the top and work down? As for how you cut it...you mean point cut it? (by cutting up into your fingers?) That is how I usually do it ...makes it more piecey..

varucca
Posts: 3

Trendy Haircuts
Posted: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 4:10:15 PM

Hello everyone my name is Jessie. I am a new Hairdresser of 1 yr. I love to do hair but find myself getting bord doing the same old things where can I learn some new Treny Cuts? I live in Hawaii and there really arent any classes and if there r there very expensive but im a fast learner and love to try new things. Any ideas for me?

jenkr22
Posts: 5

Posted: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 4:40:08 PM

as for cutting from the bottom up this is not a good idea especially if you are unsure of your cut there is a chance of cutting the bottom to short, cutting into your guide, and one side will usually be longer. its always best to cut the same direction on both sides not top to bottom on one side and bottom to top on the other. that for sure will be uneven. just remember no matter what works for you, you always need guides.

carrie
Posts: 47

cutting from top down
Posted: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 10:01:06 PM

I did try a combination of techniques today on a client...I did the T parting...and had cut a guide (just a nip below the nose) and when I tried holding it out at a 45 degree angle...I had a hard time figuring out how exactly to cut it as for some reason my new "guide" disappeared...so I ended up keeping that part..and overdirecting forward with a lil torque up and then parting again and didn't end up with many longer pieces to go back again..and it seemed to help with whatever angle I usually pull the hair forward to frame...but would still like to figuer out the T....ugh. I always cut from the top down...and can't figure out why you would do it the other way...how would you know where your shortest layer would end up?? (especially if the person was sure they wanted it just to the tip of the nose...or cheekbone....)

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