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Bulletin Boards > Haircolor > !!!Hot Roots!!!
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Posted By:chukeedoll2 on: 11/5/2009 9:35:41 AM


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Author: Thread: !!!Hot Roots!!!
chukeedoll2
Posts: 1

!!!Hot Roots!!!
Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2009 9:35:41 AM
Okay so i got a client in with level 5 hair with 50% gray. I have herd about pigment packing from what my boss has told me but it was not very insightful. He said that in order to open the cuticle and let the color process to put 40vol. developer when doing the pigment pack which is putting 2 parts color to 1 part solution. Well i happened to do this on my client and instead had a lighter shade of the color she had and it hardly covered her gray. Our salon uses Wella and we happened to not have 55/0 which is why i was going to pigment pack so i used just the 5/0. I left it on for a good 35 to 40 minutes but it still did not take. should i have just used 20vol. to as not get that lighter shade or should i have maybe used less color? it seems like my boss is giving me the wrong information that i do not even want to ask him for help anymore.

jadekitty
Posts: 99

?
Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2009 8:54:32 PM
I've never heard of pigment packing. 40 vol is still going to give you 4 levels of lift, on grey hair or not. I'd also advise against changing the recommended mixing ratio.
Next time, if you're out of a colour, it can be mixed up. You'd use 3/4 of a tube of 66/0 and 1/4 of a tube of 44/0 with 20 vol. This should give you a level 5. The other option would have been to use 1/2 of 4/0 with 1/2 of 5/0. The double pigment naturals tend to process about a half shade to a full shade darker than regular naturals.
The highest developer I've ever used on grey is 30 vol, and that was only in one case - and she was 90% white.
When in doubt, call the Wella hotline - there should be a toll free number in the swatch book for professionals. They can help you with a mix if you need it.
Good luck, and I hope this helps!
"Keep smiling - it makes people wonder what you're up to."

Humberto
Posts: 254
Bronze Member

Posted: Friday, November 06, 2009 8:39:11 AM
Pigment packing is a technique used on very resistant gray hair. It require precise measurement and calculation.

Hair color works with three basic components-

1. Dyes- indirect pigments, some direct pigments, translucent pigments, opaque pigments, etc.

2. Alkaline agent- usually ammonia but ,mea and other products can be used.

3. Oxidizer- Usually hydrogen peroxide.

The the tube/bottle color component is made up the dye and the alkaline agent. It is mixed with the oxidizer (peroxide), in equal parts. The alkaline agent swells the cuticle and allows the dye and peroxide to enter the hair shaft . While the ammonia does it's job of swelling the hair shaft, the peroxide is attacking the natural pigment molecules in the hair and destroying them. The peroxide is also bonding with the dye molecules in the color and forcing them to form chains of pigment inside the hair shaft. This all occurs simultaneously.

Pigment packing takes advantage of these chemical processes to achieve a desired result. By increasing the amount of color in the formula we increase the percentage of ammonia in our mix, this allows the cuticle to swell especially on resistant gray hair.

However in order to oxidize the greater pigment load we need a higher concentration of peroxide. So we use 30v or 40v. To determine the correct developer consider the "working volume" of the mixed color.

"Working volume" is determined by dividing the volume of the developer by the ratio it is used in the mix. If the mix is half peroxide and half color, divide by two. If it is one third of the mix divide by three.

When we mix equal parts of 20v the "working mix"
is 20v/2= 10v "working mix", if we pigment pac with 20v and the developer is a third of the mix then 20v/3=6.7v "working mix" (6.7v is not enough to be effective). However pigment packing with 30v will get 30v/3=10v working mix exact same as 20v in the normal mix with better gray coverage.
pigment packing with 40v will get 40v/3= 13.33v which will most likely get some lift.

Pigment packing can also be done with a combination of permanent color and demi color, you can also load up on developer to get the equivalent "working volume" of 60v, 70v or 80v. You can use bleach with 80v-100v as a balyage technique for hiliting. You can use acid color as a neutralizer when rinsing a perm to neutralize and color at the same time. These are all advanced skills that require knowledge of basic chemistry and physiology of the hair.


Also using an N or /0 series MAY give a more translucent effect and the appearance of insufficient covering of gray hair. If using NN or /00 then expect a more opaque result.

jadekitty
Posts: 99

Thanks
Posted: Friday, November 06, 2009 7:54:21 PM
Wow. This is all new to me, but it still sounds a little confusing. Seems like something that should be explained in detail, like Humberto did, not on the fly (like you boss did!) and practiced at length.
At least now I'm more informed. Thanks. I think I'll look into this further - if not for use, then for the sake of having the information.
"Keep smiling - it makes people wonder what you're up to."

razhollows@gmail.com
Posts: 33

Answer to Hot roots
Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 2:22:56 PM
Universal Law of Color= When root area is 50% gray or more, You must anchor with an N Series.  Here is a Formula.   If you use 2 ounces of color= One and a half of N and 1/2 ounce of  desired  overtone. For example, If she wants a Neutral 5 level,  one and a half ounce of N series and 1/4 gold and 1/4 green ash. Her hair will be resistant in the root, add a dab of extra ammonia or bleaching cream, whatever your color line offers..  This is a great formula. If you need any further help.  E-mail me at razhollows@gmail.com.  Formulation is one of my specialty's. Good-Luck, Take Care ,  No matter what, don't let the Client see you freak out. Stay calm.  My cell # is 954-592-8260  I'm here if you need me, No matter what  the situation,Ican help.  Go to your Color Wheel, You need to know this Backwards and Forwards.

jathomas75@verizon.net
Posts: 1

okay????
Posted: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:18:42 PM

so... i don't understand "pigment packing", but i have a ?? for everyone. i have a student who can never get the color she whats. she is a natural 6/7 and wants to be a fashion 5/6. we have tried everything to prevent hot roots, but it happens everytime. tonight we decolorized her hair with color remover (as per the manu. instructions), then when we got her to a level 6 we used 10vol. midshaft to ends first for 20 min. then colored the roots for the last 10 min. guess what??? HOT ROOTS!!! at first i thought it was because of the light reflecting off the hair, but it wasn't. what can we do now???? i thought that 10 vol. would work because of the deposit only capibility. any guesses as what we could do next would be greatly appreciated.


thanks, jenn


 
pixanne
Posts: 478
Silver Member

Posted: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:22:47 AM
you need to leave the color x 10 vol on the root for the full 30 minutes, to get the full deposit.