Purple Reign: The Latest Trend in Color
By Cailley Hammel
Grape. Violet. Plum. Mauve. Whatever you call it, the color purple is reigning supreme on the red carpet—and you’re bound to get requests for the amethyst hue. For the low-down on all things purple, we chatted with Cherry Petenbrink, Joico Guest Artist known for her work on The Hunger Games. Read on for her take on the trend and how you can translate it to your next client!
The Color Purple
Of the ROYGBIV spectrum, why is purple popular? Cherry says it’s a universal color. “Whether your clients are pale or olive-skinned, there’s so many ways to make purple work for different ethnicities and skin tones,” Cherry says. “This new shade is a #1 request for my clients!”
But that’s not all—Cherry says there’s a historical appeal to the trend. “It’s known to be a regal color,” Cherry says. “People don’t think they’re being too punk or grunge. It still has that classic, regal effect.”
To the Dark Side
Earlier this year, we saw Kelly Osbourne don a metallic lilac color. Following suit a few months later was Katy Perry in a rich grape hue. And now, Zooey Deschanel’s inky brunette/violet combination is winning over hearts everywhere. While all these shades are beautiful, it's clear purple is shifting from light to dark and smouldering.
“Whenever fall comes along, people start thinking about switching it up,” Cherry says. “But I think we were seeing so much pastel pink as influenced by Effie in The Hunger Games, and now people are wanting to shift from the pastel, dusty shades into something a little richer and deeper.” In addition, Cherry notes the darker color is more subtle and office-appropriate than it’s lilac counterpart, making it a very client-friendly change.
Here’s Cherry’s formula suggestion: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome Demi-Permanent Crème Color 1 oz. V4 (Passion Fruit) + 1 oz. RB (Really Blue) + ½ oz. N1 (Black Amethyst) + 5 oz. Chrome Activator. Apply from scalp to ends.
The heavier dye load lengthens the life of the color, Cherry says, adding that the formula can be adjusted for the desired depth or level.
“If there is an existing difference of levels scalp to ends, a soft ombré effect will still be present,” Cherry says. “If the hair is an even Level 6 to 4 from scalp to ends a beautiful blue-violet/black hue will be present.”
Want a more dramatic end result? Cherry suggests placing vertical and diagonal slices and weaves from the recession to the hairline; start behind the ear and work toward the front hairline. For best results, stagger at least six sliced and woven sections on each side and lift at least three or four levels, applying lightener 1/2-inch from the scalp to ends in foil. After applying the formula and allowing it to process, you will have what Cherry calls “Flash Effects,” which is a color look that, thanks to its internal dimension, resembles the flash of a camera—but all the time!
Make it Last
Compared to the pastel color trend, Cherry says inky colors are easier for your clients to maintain, as you can opt for demi color and even permanent color. However, she still suggests a few strategies to keep your color looking fresh. In particular, keep away from super hot water during rinses and advise your client to skip shampoos when possible. It’s a great chance for you to send her home with some dry shampoo and, of course, a color care shampoo and conditioner set! Cherry recommends Joico Color Endure and K-PAK Color Therapy.
But at-home products are just the beginning! Cherry advises you use a sealer on the hair at the end of the service. “It’s acidic, and it balances the hair back to the pH it needs to be, so it closes the cuticle, seals the color in and helps to lock in any of that semi-permanent color that might’ve gone just under the cuticle layer,” Cherry says.
Katniss Everdeen's Dazzling Brunette
3 Quick Color How-Tos from George Papanikolas
How-to: Purple Ombré
82 Celebrity Color Formulas Book: Here are 82 celebrity color formulas you can use to re-create the shades your clients demand.
Subscribe to behindthechair.com On Paper and receive a FREE T-shirt! SUBSCRIBE NOW!