How-Tos: 
Retro-Glamour Waves and Spiral Coils

By: Diane Lym-tai Da Costa, Mizani Multi-textured Expert

Often times, Curly Girls with curly and tight coily hair desire very glamorous waves or sexy spiral curls. How do you achieve these styles—which can take a very long time to create—without adding extra stress on the hair and without curling or waving irons? Stylists and clients are going to love the fabulous new curly techniques I created exclusively for Mizani, and so are the women with natural curls and those growing out their relaxers. This month I’ll feature Retro-Glamour Waves and Spiral Coils.

Retro-Glamour Waves
This style was created with Mizani True Textures Perfect Curl.

STEP 1
Start with wet hair and a leave in conditioner throughout the hair. Distribute a generous amount of TRUETEXTURES™ Perfect Curl through the hair evenly. Then smooth the hair down with a flat paddle brush. Starting on the right side of the head, create a 1 inch 45 degree diagonal part stating at the front right hairline–from eyebrow to the nape and slice off the first panel. Then divide the sliced section in two equal sections.

STEP 2
Cross the front piece over the back one, keeping the hair flat to the head. Now, cross the pieces over one another again, this time picking up hair from underneath, along with the piece that crosses over the top. Continue the procedure until you reach the ends. As you work, re-mist the hair with water as needed to maintain a consistent moisture level.

STEP 3
Then wrap the flat twist around its own base to create a knot, and secure in place with a hair pin. Continue working around the head, repeat above as you complete flat twists in the same manner. Apply Perfect Curl to each panel if necessary and mist hair continually to maintain dampness.

STEP 4
When you complete the entire head and you reach the opposite side, place the client under a hood dryer until the hair is completely dry—about half an hour to 45 minutes. Unwind the knots and separate the flat twists, one by one. To finish, apply a small amount of MIZANI Coconut Soufflé and fingercomb and stretch the hair to create separation and fullness. Work from the nape up, in large horizontal sections.

Spiral Coils
This style is created with Mizani Moisture Stretch.

Finger Twirls are a great way to create a curly professional spiral curl on your clients. If you reference the Mizani Natural Curl Key—you can use Mizani Perfect Curl with Types II to V and Mizani Moisture Stretch with Types VI to VIII to create this coily spiral look.

See the different hair types here!

STEP 1
Start with wet or damp hair. Prep hair by distributing a small Amount of TRUE TEXTURES Moisture Stretch through entire head evenly and comb through in sections, using a medium wooden comb. Then take a ½-inch horizontal section at the right side of the nape and subdivide it vertically. Each section will be spun around your forefinger to create finger-twirled coils.

STEP 2
Continue horizontal parting across back of head and twirl each section using forefinger in a clockwise direction. Spin hair around your finger from roots to ends, then release it and move onto the next subsection. When horizontal rows in back are complete, include the side sections.

STEP 3
When you reach the crown area, hold the hair up and divide the section to separate the back from the front fringe which will be directed forward.  If necessary, re-mist the hair with water to maintain curl consistency. To prevent over-saturation of product, do not reapply TRUE TEXTURES™ Moisture Stretch unless necessary. Complete the back portion of the crown by creating one or more rows of finger twirls directed towards the back. In front portion create a triangular shape on top for bangs or fringe. Over-direct these coils with finger twirls toward the front and side.

STEP 4
Place under hood dryer for 25 – 30 minutes. When hair is completely dry, unravel each coil one by one starting at the back nape of head and spinning coils counter-clockwise. Once the hair is unraveled split the coils down the middle with your pointer finger. Continue to separate hair into another section for fuller spiral coils. Lift hair only at the root with a styling comb for more fullness and spray Mizani Gloss Veil for shine and light hold.

Home Maintenance
To maintain these styles, clients should sleep with a satin bonnet and avoid all contact with water with a shower cap. Refresh style daily by fingercombing and stretching the waves and palm-shaking and stretching coils. Moisturize hair daily or as need with Mizani Gloss Veil or Mizani Coconut Soufflé. The True Textures Styling Collections & Techniques is available to all stylist and salons when you purchase the Mizani True Textures for Natural Curls product line.