Although the world did not end in 2012, some stylists wish that high-contrast ombré could have been wiped off the map. Ted Gibson, owner of Ted Gibson Salons is not a fan of the “need to get your roots done” look and sees something new on the horizon: “The new haircolor trend will be gradient color, which is a much more subtle and soft shading effect.” Rona O’Connor, celebrity colorist and owner of Lukaro Salon in Beverly Hills agrees that extreme ombré has had its day in the sun, and that a more understated version will take center stage this year, “I see extreme ombré phasing out, as it has been overkill. The look will go back to a prettier “sun-flicked” accent (á la Gisele Bundchen).” Janine Jarman, Sebastian Professional Lead Stylist, suggests that ombré doesn’t have to stick to its traditional brown to blonde graduation in the New Year. Instead, she suggests, “how about red to orange to yellow?”
Get more 2013 hair and haircolor trend predictions!
When the seasons change, so should your clients’ haircolor! According to Davines International Color Ambassador Edoardo Paludo, this season’s brunette takes on a rich, tobacco tone. Here’s his favorite formula:
Natural Level: 6
Midlengths and ends: Davines A New Colour 30g 5,14 + 30g A New Colour Cream Base + 60g A New Colour Activator 30-volume. Process for 15 minutes.
Scalp area: A New Colour 20g 5,14 + 10g A New Colour 5,0 + 30g A New Colour Cream Base + 60g A New Colour Activator 20-volume. Apply to the root area and process for 35 minutes. Add some water to the color, rinse thoroughly and dry the hair.
Flamboyage highlights: 20g A New Colour bleaching powder + 60g A New Colour Activator 10-volume. Apply using Flamboyage Meche strips (20/24 strips). Process for 20 minutes. Remove strips by rinsing with warm water. Shampoo and towel dry the hair.
Toner: 30g 6,73 Davines Mask + 45g Activation Source 10-volume. Apply as a toner, process for 10 minutes.
Get a coppery brunette color how-to from Davines!
Color services are super profitable for salons, so whenever we hear of a quick and easy new color service guaranteed to make you lots of cash, we HAVE to share! This idea from Schwarzkopf Professional Fashion Director Nicole Hartmann of Privé Salon in West Hollywood is pure gold. “When I need to do a great color service on the fly, I like to create a color halo,” she says. “I strategically place a panel of color so it has a halo effect—as if the sun is shining on the hair.” To get the look, create a halo-shaped section on the top of the head. Apply a lighter or contrasting color to subsections in the center or on the ends of the halo section. “I like to offset colors,” says Nicole. “So for example, if the client has a Level 5 copper base, I might create the halo with Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal COLOR10 4-89—a purple tone that is one shade darker.” Get 3 no-brainer ways to boost your color revenue!
At Sunday’s Golden Globes, we were pleased as punch to see several leading ladies donning ‘dos that hinted at a bygone era, showing off polished and pristine retro-inspired hair. One of our favorites was Naomi Watts’ side-swept faux bob. Describing her look as “a bit more modern than old-Hollywood,” here’s how stylist Giannandrea Marongiu created the look:
1. Spray Matrix Total Results Blonde Care Flash Filler evenly through wet hair.
2. Apply Matrix Total Results Amplify Foam Volumizer to the roots and partially down the length.
3. Using a medium round brush, blow-dry hair in sections then create a deep side part.
4. Curl hair using a ½-inch curling iron, gently spraying Matrix Total Results Amplify Hairspray on each section before curling.
5. Apply Matrix Design Pulse Mega Dust to a boar bristle brush and brush through hair very gently to stretch the waves and create texture.
6. Apply a pea-size amount of Biolage ExquisiteOil Replenishing Treatment to hand and gently run over hair to tame flyaways and add shine.
7. Tie a rubber band halfway down the length and fold hair up and under to create the faux bob.
8. Pin hair in place at the nape then shape the waves around the face.
Get 4 more retro glam hair how-tos from the Golden Globes!
If business is slowing, better pick up the pace! There are lots of strategies that will help you keep your salon business lively, but one to rethink is discounting. It’s tempting to discount services when business is slow, but think about it: what happens when you give a new client 50% off, for example? If your cuts are normally $60, you’ve lost $30 in revenue with no guarantee of retaining that new customer. Instead, create affordable incentives like free deep conditioning treatments for first-timers. On average, this service costs just $3 and can be done by an assistant. You’ve saved $27 and your client is still thrilled to receive something special! If you want to try discounting, opt for something that brings new business in the door, like a “2-for-1 Bring a Friend” discount. An existing client can bring a new client in for a service, and they’ll both end up paying half the price. It’s a great way to give a break to your loyal clients and meet some of their friends, too! Get 5 more sales-boosting tips!
For many of you, extensions have become the hallmark service in your salon, but for others, the thought of doing extension work is sweat-inducing. Have no fear, hair extension novices—we all have to start somewhere! How about starting with these three consultation tips from Celeste Lucero, Technical Director for Great Lengths:
Talk It Through—Extension consultations are critical and they must be thorough. This is often an emotional decision and a significant investment. Be sure your client understands the service and care completely, and be sure you understand exactly what she wants and expects.
Hairline Check—The shape of the hairline will help you determine how far up you’ll place your extensions, so be sure to investigate it!
Density Check—This is crucial for balance. If the hair is fine, avoid adding too much additional hair or it will look unnatural. Learn 4 celebrity hair how-tos from Great Lengths!
This winter, we’re crazy for copper, and in this look from Angelo Seminara, the unique placement of copper highlights—created using Davines A New Colour and the Flamboyage Meche technique—punctuates the shape of the cut with whimsical precision. Here are the formulas Angelo used to create this spectacular color on a Level 5:
Formula A: Flamboyage Meche + 30g A New Colour Bleaching Powder + 90g A New Colour Activator 10-volume
Formula B: Flamboyage Meche + 30g A New Colour Bleaching Powder + 90g A New Colour Activator 30-volume
Formula C: 30g A New Colour 7,4 + 30g A New Colour Cream Base + 60g A New Colour Activator 20-volume.
Get the complete color how-to!
From sunny strawberry to deep Bordeaux, reds of all shades and tones turn heads—they always demand to be noticed. Aloxxi Artistic Advisor Teri Dougherty’s favorite “of-the-moment” red is this bright, brilliant red with a burgundy overlay. To create it on a Level 4 medium brown, Teri suggests these formulas:
Formula A: Aloxxi Chroma 3V + 20-volume developer 1:1.5
Formula B: Aloxxi Chroma 5XR + 20-volume developer 1:1.5
Formula C: Aloxxi Chroma 5V + 10-volume developer 1:1.5
Application: Section hair into five triangles. Apply Formula A to the perimeter and crest line. Apply Formula B to the side triangles in the crest line area. Apply Formula C to the top triangle. Process and rinse. Get Teri’s “Sparkling Prosecco” blonde color formula!
Deciding how and when to raise your prices is one of the toughest tasks salons face. It’s essential to survive in business but many fear they’ll lose clients after a price hike. Marion Shaw, author of BTC Bestseller Waiting for the Busy Bus, says, “So many salons short change themselves when it comes to charging correctly for the level of service and product they supply, yet when we look at our expenses, they are constantly going up.” Marion says to strategically raise prices to ensure your clients stay where they belong—in your chair! “Instead of raising prices across the board, stagger the increase,” she explains. “For example, choose to raise highlighting and chemical services or cutting and styling services together. This organized approach can ease sticker shock and keep clients from spacing out their regular appointments. After a year, pick two new services to increase and follow the same steps,” she advises. Get 3 more tips on strategically raising your prices!
Inquiring minds want to know…what’s Tabatha Coffey’s personal color formula? The truth is out—Tab has revealed the secret to her icy hue.
Formulas: Tabatha is a natural level 7, and she’s a big fan of both Matrix and Joico color. When using Joico, she lifts her regrowth with Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 10-volume developer. If she’s working with Matrix, it’s V-Light De-Dusted Lightener + 10-volume developer.
Application: Since she’s constantly on the road bouncing between tapings and speaking engagements, she prefers to do her own color. “This is something I don’t advocate,” she warns. “But due to my schedule it’s better than trying to squeeze in with someone.” Using two mirrors, she sections her hair into quadrants and retouches the roots, checking every 10 minutes and keeping it wet until it lifts to the desired level.
Toners: After reconstructing and drying her hair, Tabatha tones with either Joico Vero Chrome Demi-Permanent Crème Haircolor ½ V9 Violet Base or with Matrix Color Sync Sheer Pastel Violet + Clear + developer. Check out the new extension line starring Tabatha Coffey!