When BTC tagged along with TIGI recently at the South by Southwest Music Festival, we picked up lots of styling tips as the team, led by co-owners of Bettie Bangs Salon in Austin, served as the go-to stylists for VIPs throughout the event in the Bed Head Style Lounge at the Nikon Warner Sound showcase. Festival hair was the focus, obviously, but we learned lots of great tips you can use in the salon, too! “Some of my favorite tricks for fixing my client’s hair after a long day or even for styling second day hair is using braids and twists,” says Bettie Bangs’ Kristen Klein. “TIGI Masterpiece Hairspray is my go-to product for braids and twists—it adds great hold and shine.” Kristen’s favorite new ’do—and one that could make for a fabulous prom style—is an easy headband twist. “Place a bungee headband on top of all the hair around the crown of the head,” she says. “Then tuck in pieces of the hair into the headband until it’s all rolled up and tucked in. Spray the style in place when you’re done and you have an elegant but youthful, retro updo.” Get more unique styling tips from TIGI!
Who says unconventional color has to look avant garde? In this look from the Goldwell® Color Zoom Beautify collection, shades of raspberry and copper work together to create a look that’s unique, sure, but decidedly wearable. Here are the formulas:
Formula A: Goldwell® SilkLift®: 35 ml Conditioning Cream Developer 6% (20 vol.) + 1 spoon High Performance Lightener without ammonia + 1 tube SilkLift Intensive Serum
Formula B: Goldwell® Topchic®: 40 ml Lotion 6% (20 vol.) + 40 ml 7PK
Formula C: Goldwell® Colorance®: 80 ml Lotion + 5 ml VV-Mix + 15 ml RR-Mix + 20 ml Clear
Formula D: Colorance®: 20 ml Lotion + 10 ml 8OR
Formula E: Colorance®: 50 ml Lotion + 10 ml 8OR + 10 ml KK-Mix + 5 ml RR-Mix
Get the entire step-by-step, including placement diagrams!
You don’t need to be near the ocean to create the perfect beach waves. So forget the salt water and pick up your curling iron—Simon Miller, National Technical Trainer for KMS® California has a quick and easy formula for creating stylish waves with a laid-back edge.
1. Mist hair with KMS® California Free Shape Hot Flex® spray. Comb through to distribute product evenly.
2. Gather a 1 to 2-inch section of hair. Near the base, make a half turn with your iron and let sit for a few seconds before slowly releasing the curl.
3. With the same section of hair, make another half turn with your iron facing the opposite direction. Hold for a few seconds and gently release.
The resulting look is a cross between a finger wave and a curling iron set, says Simon, but requires half the effort! Check out 4 more sizzlin’ summer styles!
A stunning gown…the perfect pair of Jimmy Choos…her grandmother’s pearls; when it comes to her wedding day style, your bride has it all. Well, almost. Below the neck she’s ready to go, but her super fine, thin hair leaves something to be desired. So how on earth are you going to create the perfect, dreamy ’do to complete her bridal ensemble? According to celebrity stylist Danielle Caputo Estorino, the trick is to embrace diffusion. “Creating casual, tousled textures is a great trick for preventing peek-a-boo scalps,” she says. Here’s her tip for creating a gorgeous wedding day style: Mist random sections with Nioxin Thickening Spray and wind the strand around a small barrel iron. Mix up the size of the sections that you curl for a more natural look. Once the hair is cool, pull the curls apart with your fingers. “I like using diffusers on fine hair,” comments Danielle. “They’re great tools because they don’t overstretch the hair and they maintain elasticity.” Get 4 more tips for working with fine-haired brides!
At this year’s Oscars, it was all about the updo; the big screen stars provided plenty of inspiration for your clients’ wedding styles. We particularly loved Jenna Dewan-Tatum’s (hottie Channing Tatum’s lovely wife) elegant, tousled updo. “We went for a soft, retro romantic feel,” explains her stylist Bridget Brager. Here’s how she did it:
1. Apply Macadamia Natural Oil No Tangle on damp hair from the mid-shaft down. Next, work a dime-sized amount of Macadamia Healing Oil Treatment on the ends and rough-dry the hair to bring out its natural texture.
2. Wrap 2-inch sections around a 1-inch curling iron, pulling down on the hair to soften the wave as each section is dropped.
3. After the waves are set, leave the front section out and lightly twist hair back above the ear and pin it just above the nape.
4. Take the remaining hair and loosely braid it, wrap it into a low knot and secure it with hair pins.
5. Finish with Macadamia Natural Oil Control Hairspray.
Get 4 more wedding updo ideas and how-tos!
What’s the best way to liberate your client’s long locks and enhance her features? By creating lovely long layers, of course! Some blending here, a little slicing there, and suddenly your client looks like a superstar. But when you’re confronted with a sea of long hair, how do you keep your head above water and create the best layered look for your client? Begin with these tips from Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney.
Scissors Only: I’m a purist and I stick to my shears—no razors or texturizing shears when layering so texturizing is kept to a minimum. Therefore the original technique/concept is not altered and the original design concept remains intact. The secret to layering is removing weight, and with scissors one can remove weight and create any effect that can be done with razors or texturizers, but the integrity of the hair is maintained.
Layer First: Keep in mind that hair will fall to its heaviest point. If the outline is solid, it is difficult to soften or lighten a line once it’s established. So create your internal layers first; by doing so you will create your outline at the same time. What’s more, the outline will be softer, your layers will be fluid and your look will be modern.
Get 5 more tips from Damien for mastering long layers!
When the seasons change, so should your clients’ haircolor! According to Davines International Color Ambassador Edoardo Paludo, this season’s brunette takes on a rich, tobacco tone. Here’s his favorite formula:
Natural Level: 6
Midlengths and ends: Davines A New Colour 30g 5,14 + 30g A New Colour Cream Base + 60g A New Colour Activator 30-volume. Process for 15 minutes.
Scalp area: A New Colour 20g 5,14 + 10g A New Colour 5,0 + 30g A New Colour Cream Base + 60g A New Colour Activator 20-volume. Apply to the root area and process for 35 minutes. Add some water to the color, rinse thoroughly and dry the hair.
Flamboyage highlights: 20g A New Colour bleaching powder + 60g A New Colour Activator 10-volume. Apply using Flamboyage Meche strips (20/24 strips). Process for 20 minutes. Remove strips by rinsing with warm water. Shampoo and towel dry the hair.
Toner: 30g 6,73 Davines Mask + 45g Activation Source 10-volume. Apply as a toner, process for 10 minutes.
Get a coppery brunette color how-to from Davines!
At Sunday’s Golden Globes, we were pleased as punch to see several leading ladies donning ‘dos that hinted at a bygone era, showing off polished and pristine retro-inspired hair. One of our favorites was Naomi Watts’ side-swept faux bob. Describing her look as “a bit more modern than old-Hollywood,” here’s how stylist Giannandrea Marongiu created the look:
1. Spray Matrix Total Results Blonde Care Flash Filler evenly through wet hair.
2. Apply Matrix Total Results Amplify Foam Volumizer to the roots and partially down the length.
3. Using a medium round brush, blow-dry hair in sections then create a deep side part.
4. Curl hair using a ½-inch curling iron, gently spraying Matrix Total Results Amplify Hairspray on each section before curling.
5. Apply Matrix Design Pulse Mega Dust to a boar bristle brush and brush through hair very gently to stretch the waves and create texture.
6. Apply a pea-size amount of Biolage ExquisiteOil Replenishing Treatment to hand and gently run over hair to tame flyaways and add shine.
7. Tie a rubber band halfway down the length and fold hair up and under to create the faux bob.
8. Pin hair in place at the nape then shape the waves around the face.
Get 4 more retro glam hair how-tos from the Golden Globes!
For many of you, extensions have become the hallmark service in your salon, but for others, the thought of doing extension work is sweat-inducing. Have no fear, hair extension novices—we all have to start somewhere! How about starting with these three consultation tips from Celeste Lucero, Technical Director for Great Lengths:
Talk It Through—Extension consultations are critical and they must be thorough. This is often an emotional decision and a significant investment. Be sure your client understands the service and care completely, and be sure you understand exactly what she wants and expects.
Hairline Check—The shape of the hairline will help you determine how far up you’ll place your extensions, so be sure to investigate it!
Density Check—This is crucial for balance. If the hair is fine, avoid adding too much additional hair or it will look unnatural. Learn 4 celebrity hair how-tos from Great Lengths!
Working as the hair lead for a show like X-Factor is arguably the most demanding form of hairdressing, but Dean Banowetz has the mastered the rigorous gig of backstage styling. “I often channel my U.S. Army days and the experience I got filling in for Broadway shows to get through it!” he says. “The first week I was there we had 40 backup dancers and 20 of them had three quick changes. We had eight minutes to change hair, makeup and wardrobe.” To get everything done on time, Dean says that you have to be strategic. “If they’re going from hoods to feather headdresses to beach waves,” he explains, “you set the hair in cornrows, hide it under the hoods, whip off the hoods and attach the headdresses to the cornrows, then remove the cornrows and hit the hair with dry shampoo to make big waves!” Get more exclusive X-Factor backstage tips from Dean!