Are you stuck in a color rut with your client? Every visit, it’s the same old routine: “retouch and a highlight.” Try to always give your client something to look forward to, says David Velasco, author of 101 Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Consultation. “Give her a vision of what the future could look like and suggest she change her color slightly with each season,” he suggests. “Like adding subtle highlights in the spring, which get heavier in the summer. In the fall, introduce warmer tones or reddish highlights, and then deepen the base for winter.” But how to initiate that color conversation is the tough part. David suggests something like this: “Hi Suzie! I’ve been thinking about your haircolor (already she’s impressed because you’ve been thinking about her even though you may have hundreds of other clients) and what I’d like to do when you come in for your May appointment. I thought we’d start introducing a few very soft highlights to complement your spring wardrobe and makeup. Then after that, we can increase the boldness of your highlights for summer. What do you think about that?” Continue the conversation to talk about your fall and winter plans, explaining the benefits of each new look. “Remember,” says David. “If you don’t change your client’s look, she will change you!” Get successful tintback strategies from David Velasco!

What fashion-forward client doesn’t love a show-stopping red? Make a bold statement using these formulas from TIGI Copyright ©olour:

Formula 1: TIGI copyright©olour creative 77/66 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 40-volume/12% (mixing ratio 1:1.5)

Formula 2: TIGI copyright©olour mix master /66 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 30-volume/9% (mixing ratio 1:1.5)

Formula 3: TIGI copyright©olour mix master /66 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 20-volume/6% (mixing ratio 1:1.5)

Formula 4: TIGI copyright©olour mix master /66 + TIGI copyright©olour mix master /44 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 20-volume/6% (mixing ratio 1:1.5) Click here for the complete step-by-step and application technique!

Red carpets are ablaze in cool, in-your-face color—and the trend certainly isn’t fading. Looking to recreate a hot, dramatic color on your clients? This jewel-toned pink look from the 2012 Wella Trend Vision stage presentation in New York City provides the perfect inspiration. Here’s the formula:

Base Color: Wella Koleston Perfect 3/0 + 4/66 + 6% (20-volume) developer
Top Midlengths and Ends: Prelighten to orange with Wella Blondor Multi Blonde + 6 % (20-volume) developer. Apply Wella Professionals Color Touch Special Mix 0/56 to the base areas and Koleston Perfect Special Mix 0/45 + 0/65 + 3% (10-volume) Koleston Perfect Crème Developer to midlengths and ends. See the 2012 Wella Trend Vision trends and enter now for your chance to win international acclaim!

This lively, multicolor look from Goldwell’s FasciNature collection features a refined violet-ash base and an explosion of fiery color in the fringe area. Why not give it a try on one of your clients this spring? (These formulas are for an existing shade of 5N.) Begin by sectioning out a wing shape in the fringe area. Lighten the entire section with 1 measuring spoon Goldwell SilkLift High Performance Lightener gentle + 35ml SilkLift Conditioning Cream Developer 9% (30 vol) 1 tube SilkLift Intensive Conditioning Serum. Apply 40ml Topchic Lotion 6% (20 vol) + 40ml Topchic 5VA as a base color, omitting the wing section. Process, shampoo, rinse and dry the hair. Treat the lightened wing section with Elumen Prepare, then dry the hair. In back-to-back slices within the wing section, apply 30ml Elumen BR@6 + 10ml Elumen RR@all and 10ml Elumen BG@8 + 10ml Elumen KB@7. Process, rinse and shampoo with Elumen Wash. Apply Elumen Lock, leave on for five minutes and rinse. Treat with Elumen Treat or Elumen Care if necessary. Register for online haircolor education from Goldwell!

Matrix Artistic Director Patrick McIvor asks his clients three questions before coloring their hair to ensure he meets expectations:

How often do you want to color your hair?

Platinum blonde requires frequent touchups, so if your client isn’t ready for the commitment, suggest a glaze instead. On the same note, subtle highlights can last much longer than a full head of highlights. “It’s important to pick something that fits a client’s lifestyle,” says Patrick. “If there’s not enough time to get to the salon for touchups, it won’t look good, and you don’t want it to be a poor reflection on you.”

How much money do you want to spend?

Color needs to be maintained so it’s important to look at the finances of color before committing to a style with your client. “Do the math first so nobody ends up disappointed!” says Patrick.

How much time do you want to spend coloring your hair?

If sitting for two hours is not an option, opt for a demi-permanent glaze to kick brass or add cool tones; it takes a mere 20 minutes. “On the other hand, maybe your client’s appointment is her only way to relax and get away from an otherwise hectic life,” say Patrick. “Ask your guests these questions and I promise they will be happy with their new color.” WIN a $10,000 Facebook makeover from Matrix!

Question: My Asian client is a coarse, Natural Level 2. She would like some chocolate brown highlights to give her color dimension. I am considering lifting her hair with a violet-toned, Level 5 permanent color. I want to be sure her highlights are noticeable but not brassy. What would you suggest?

Beth says: Lifting Level 2 hair with Level 5 color should reveal a final Level 3.5 and this CAN appear red. I would use a Level 4 ash (blue or blue-based) formula mixed with 20-volume developer. Or, for lighter, cool highlights, you might consider prelightening the hair with bleach, processing to the gold/yellow stage, then toning with a Level 7 ash demi-permanent formula. Enter to WIN a Minardi Luxury Color Care Set PLUS Get 10 Celebrity Color Formulas from Beth!

When we think of summer, we can’t help but think of glorious warmth and fabulous, sun-kissed color…or this stunning new look from Scruples. With multidimensional shades of honey, nutmeg and sand, it’s a style that seems to be made for the beach! If it’s a look you think your client will love, you can recreate it on a natural Level 5 with the following formulas:

Base color: Scruples HIGH DEFINITION Ultra Light Blonde (Neutral)

Highlights: Scruples BLAZING HIGHLIGHTS Pale Vanilla Blonde 8g + 12V (medium lift) and BLAZING HIGHLIGHTS Coolest Ultra Light Blonde 12V (medium lift)

Lowlights: Scruples SHADOW LOWLIGHTS Nutmeg 6NA + 7GR and SHADOW LOWLIGHTS Chai 8NA + 9G

WIN a FREE Gel Colour System Creative Kit from Scruples!

With vibrant, contrasting colors and a sassy, sharp cut, what’s not to love about this look from Wella Professionals Trendvision Collection? If your client is a strong-willed woman with her own definitive style, this could be the perfect look for her this season. To create the color, begin by taking a horseshoe-shaped section around the head and clip it away. Apply Wella Koleston Perfect 4/0 to the underneath section. Next, make a deep zig zag parting throughout the top section of the head, creating four-five triangle-shaped sections. On each section, apply Koleston Perfect 44/65 and Koleston Perfect 66/46 + 0/66 in foils in each section, alternating the formulas as desired. Separate with foil as needed. Now learn the cut to complement this color!

Dear Beth: Many of my heavily-highlighted clients are ready to ditch the foils in exchange for a subtler ombré look. I’m having trouble creating a natural, ashy, dirty blonde shade for the roots; they keep coming up gold! Any suggestions?

Beth says: I refer to ombré as “lit from within.” The goal is a deeper root and highlights that look as if they have grown out from the scalp. I recommend you do what I do with these cases—allow the root area to begin to take the appearance of a shadow. Do not apply an all-over formula. Instead, use a cream, acidic demi-permanent shade like Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome equal parts B6 + G8. Slice significant strands of hair and place them in foils at the part, about three inches down on each side and in the back. Wrap some of the strands just from the root to about one third or three quarters of the way down the lengths, omitting some of the ends. This promotes the “grown out” ombré look, and the technique works like a charm! Win a trip to New York City to meet Beth Minardi!

Goldwell USA Art Director John Simpson has set a new standard for avant garde color design with his stunning palettes and brilliant placement. While his photographic work is not for everyday wear, he often adapts many of his strategies for his clients at Lewis’ Hair Salon in Pittsburgh. “It’s all about value,” he says. “It’s definitely possible, for example, to lowlight a brunette with blue if the blue is the right shade and intensity.” John says that to make pure, vivid shades beautiful and believable, work in threes rather than single blocks of color—a base color, an accent color and a detail color. For example, if you’re working with a blue palette, place a slice of true blue next to a navy blue next to a periwinkle shade; this will create movement and reflection. The head is round, so if you place the color in patterns that echo this shape rather than square sections, the color will “melt” together. You can design a horizontal placement within a circular section, for example, or create half-moon shapes with your three, harmonious colors. Now, learn 9 haircolor consultation and service tips from the pros at Goldwell!